New AVO coil-over for B and C series, plus damper update.

Bill Thomas

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Thanks Greg, I think at the time you was building yours, I said the same thing.
At Cadwell Park Race track, We have a place called the mountain, Some of the top Racers have BOTH wheels off the ground at the top, I could not even get the front off !!, It has been known for the chain to come OFF !!.
Thanks Eddy, Your way is the Right way, But how many other people have done that ?, And that includes me !!. As long as people know about it, I can stop worrying. I will now worry about something else !!. Cheers Bill.
 

highbury731

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Plastic bushes are also used to introduce a bit of compliance. I thought this was a useful precaution, as a lot of different parts of the bike have to be machined and assembled with perfect accuracy if the damper mountings are going to be perfectly aligned and square to each other. No wonder the D series coil-over was rubber mounted! The top mounting also has a steel bush rather than a bronze one. This is so that the top bolt can be tightened firmly, improving the rigidity of the top mount. With the bronze bush fitted, anything more than gentle pressure causes it to be crushed onto the bolt by the spacers..
My understanding is that dampers are fitted with compliant bushes (at both ends) because under small high-frequency bumps, even the best dampers tend to freeze up and become solid. The compliant bushes allow suspension movement to be maintained under these conditions. Otherwise, the only compliance is in the tyre. So, an ideal coil-over would have something more compliant than a hard plastic bush at one end. Any chance? Comments?
 

greg brillus

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Interesting point highbury, Although I think you will find these bushes you describe are designed to allow for angular changes in the suspension geometry as the suspension moves up and down, rather than to assist the unit itself. They also usually have some form of steel tubular sleeve in the center so as a through bolt can be tightened against it. The attachment points on the front and rear of a Vincent already have provision for that.
 

hadronuk

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My understanding is that dampers are fitted with compliant bushes (at both ends) because under small high-frequency bumps, even the best dampers tend to freeze up and become solid. The compliant bushes allow suspension movement to be maintained under these conditions. Otherwise, the only compliance is in the tyre. So, an ideal coil-over would have something more compliant than a hard plastic bush at one end. Any chance? Comments?
The short answer is no, but I wish it was possible. We did briefly look at using metalastic bushes, but there just isn't enough room. It may be possible for the front damper lower mount, but not without loss of already limited suspension travel. In practice, I am not aware of anybody noticing the phenomena you describe, I certainly haven't.
I can imagine that an original Vincent fixed orifice damper might be near solid at high frequencies if the amplitude was high enough. With any modern damper, perhaps the opposite might happen because the internal valves might not have time to close between oscillations?
I have experienced my Girdraulics remaining solid over small bumps, but that was because of friction from a slightly bent spring case. At small amplitudes, it takes surprisingly little extra friction to cause this effect.
 

greg brillus

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That was one of the reasons I wanted to reduce as much friction on the front suspension on the racer I built, and I feel the front and rear is very smooth and very easy to push down on........ Not only on the bars but the seat as well, all moving very nicely. The bearing modification I did to replace the large eccentric bushes with sealed bearings works extremely well, and I am doing the same to the lower link on my road going Rapide I am rebuilding at present. Not hard to do at all when used with Timetraveller's new stem's. Cheers............Greg. Ps: I had the racer out this weekend gone, and won my class, the bike performed flawlessly all weekend, absolutely superb..............;).
 

Chris Launders

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Well done Greg.
Do you think the sealed bearing conversion is worthwhile then, I have one of Timetraveller's stems fitted with 36lb/in springs and am getting almost full travel but still getting quite an initial shock hitting bumps, I've a Koni damper fitted, do you think it would be better fitting a more sophisticated damper first ?

Chris.
 

greg brillus

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Hi there Chris, thanks for that........I guess the friction loads on the large bushes in the lower link could be reduced by quite a margin due to the change in geometry from the new steering stem. For me it is quite easy to carry out the bearing upgrade because I have done it before and I know it definitely reduces friction, and it visually does not look obvious. It only requires the large eyes to be honed out to suit the 32 mm O.D. bearings, and we are talking only a few thou to go from 1 1/4" inches being the stock measurement to 32 mm. It is the stainless hat section concentric bushes that come with the stem kit that needs re-machining and a pair of new inner hat section washers so that the bearings are "Shimmed" correctly when it is all bolted up tight. This takes some machining, but not a huge job. The Koni shock absorbers are adjustable, but I would say that the newer AVO unit would be way better if only for it's modern internals and adjustable rebound, which is easy to adjust. The Koni may be too stiff particularly if your bike is a single (Comet) as being a lighter machine, stiffer suspension whether it be in the spring rates or shock absorber, is going to have a harsher affect more than the heavier twins. If I had a spare lower link I could have the bearing mod done and send it to you, or else I could try and post some pictures and spec's on here. Cheers..............Greg.
 

Chris Launders

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Hi Greg
Mine's a twin with a rather rotund rider, also my Koni's are very old and have no adjustment , so an AVO might be the best first step, probably one for the back as well !!!
The reaming and machining are not a problem (just getting motivated). If you have the bearing numbers I can work the rest out.

Thanks Chris.
 

hadronuk

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Chris, whilst I am always keen to promote AVO dampers, on first sight I think a standard spec AVO front damper is unlikely to cure your bottoming out problem. We tested several dampers including a newly reconditioned Koni. Looking at the chart for the Koni, I would not describe it as unsophisticated, in fact the basic shape of the bump stiffness chart for all the dampers we tested was very similar, except for the original Vincent damper.

The Vincent damper bump characteristic looks roughly like this:

typical%20curve057c%20Small_zpsimwrzca5.jpg




The bump stiffness for everything else including the Koni was generally this shape:-



typical%20curve057a%20Small_zps4a3por7m.jpg


The exact shape of the curves varies a bit and there were larger variations in rebound characteristics.
But the important thing for control, comfort and control of bottoming out is where what I have called the "plateau" is.
These are the approximate numbers for the dampers we dyno tested:

DAMPER ........... "PLATEAU" FORCE (lbs)
Armstrong .......................10
AVO front.........................25
Koni front.........................25
Vincent.............................25**
Thornton rear...................40
AVO rear...........................45
Ikon universal...................50

**The original Vincent damper, being a simple fixed orifice design has no plateau, but for comparison, in the middle of the velocity range, it produced a bump damping force of about 25lb.

Rebound stiffness's differ more widely, but are less noticeable in use than bump stiffness. (Racers may disagree Greg?) The Koni was a lot stiffer on rebound than the others. I suppose it is possible that a combination of this high Koni bump stiffness and your soft springs could be resulting in the suspension being "ratcheted down" a lot of the time.
Note that the AVO external adjustment has a much greater effect on rebound stiffness than bump stiffness, but even on max the rebound stiffness is appreciably less than the Koni.

The above numbers should be taken with a large pinch of salt, as the flatness of the "plateau" varied and I don't know if the dampers we tested are typical, especially the newly rebuilt Koni.
But they give the general picture.
I started testing the front damper with the 45lb setting used for the rear, but it was quite a lot firmer than it needed to be.
The 10lb of the Armstrong was just too lively and bottomed out too much.
Hence I settled on the 25lb setting for the front.

So Chris if you wish to experiment with a stiffer front damper, you could fit a new Ikon. AVO are a bit busy at present with the newly expanded and updated range, but in a while they might be willing to produce for you a front damper that had rear damper settings.
But PEI and others advise against compensating for under-springing with over-damping.
Obviously there is some wiggle room, as even standard D springs tend to bottom out too much with an Armstrong damper.
From my and Eddy's road testing, we found 45lb/inch springs to be usable but rather too soft. And that was without the loss of travel caused by your revised geometry.
What about the effect of the new geometry on the required damper length? Or might the springs be bottoming out?
All of this assumes that your revised geometry has not radically altered the spring and damper effective rates at the wheel.
If it has, I stand to be corrected.
 

Chris Launders

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Ah, you've misunderstood me it's not bottoming out that's the problem at all in fact I've not managed to have it bottom out even on S. Yorkshire excuse for roads, as I said it's the initial impact that's jarring, so I could do with a damper that's softer to begin with.
I've not had any sign of ratcheting down, on undulating roads and under braking everything's great it's just on sharp bumps and corrugations the suspension's slow to react. Perhaps I want too much.

Chris
 
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