Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

[craig]

Where do I find the written instructions on fitting the inner roller races of ET92 to each side of the flywheels main shafts?

I have a 0.033"shim ready for the drive side to center the flywheel/rods.
I would like to review any written instructions on this.

heat em up with heat gun and pound in place?

Timing side - have the OP31 worm, a dummy inner race ET94, pinion gear, and E80 nut to keep the hot ET92 bearing up against fly wheel while cooling.

Maybe similar pieces for drive side while bearing cools?

 

[davidd]

Heat is not necessary, but it may help. If you have the old bearings, hone the ID fit with a cheap brake hone so that the old bearing slides onto the main shaft with a light push. Keep the bearings as a tool to shim the flywheels. Once the shimming is determined, tap the new main bearings home.

The alternative is to modify a puller to slip down behind the bearing and pull it off. The tool is called a bearing separator and you can find one at Harbor Freight. You have to grind away at the taper on the puller so it does not touch the cage as it is tightened and wedges behind the main bearing.

The former technique is better than the latter, but you need to have an old set of main bearings.

I don't think these details are covered specifically in the Vincent literature.

David

 

[craig]

Thank you David, Always a thoughtful, well written response.
My dumb request is about "tapping the new bearings home" .
I am pretty sure I will be heating these ET92 with heat gun, hopefully easily slipping them on and securing them till cooled. I am sure Big Sid told me all about this 10 years ago, but my addled brain is having recall issues.
Thanks
Craig

And, I am happy to report, all went well, holding them for a few seconds was all that required as they cooled in 2-3 seconds.

 

[vibrac]

Ah! Harbour freight, if they would open a store here B&Q would be dead in the water, but then again I am sure half the current population of UK think a 'spanner' is a cross dresser, so I suppose we get the hardware stores we deserve.

 

[craig]

Received solder pot for brake cable work. Still waiting for supplies - solder, flux, cable fittings.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Thank you David, Always a thoughtful, well written response.
My dumb request is about "tapping the new bearings home" .
I am pretty sure I will be heating these ET92 with heat gun, hopefully easily slipping them on and securing them till cooled. I am sure Big Sid told me all about this 10 years ago, but my addled brain is having recall issues.
Thanks
Craig

And, I am happy to report, all went well, holding them for a few seconds was all that required as they cooled in 2-3 seconds.

My old mentor Laurie Binns taught me this method for fitting main bearings.

First work out what if any shim you need - see davids post #332. Then to fit the bearing put the bearing , one at a time, into a small pan of fresh engine oil then heat the lot till the oil just starts to smoke. Does 2 things -expands the bearing and also ensures full oil penetration.

Now with the flywheels on their side ie horizontal, using suitable grippers drop the now very hot bearing onto the main shaft then quickly put a box/tube spanner over the lot so it will bear down on the centre race of the bearing. Now place a weight on the upper end of the tube spanner so that as the bearing cools it cannot move away from the flywheel. I use an old house brick.

Once cool, repeat for the other side, Do not forget to install any shims BEFORE the bearing goes into place!

 

[craig]

Looking at the front brakes again and how to fabricate the best brake cable end fittings.
The hex cable ends require me to fit the final 5mm end stop after it has been passed thru the balance beam, so looking at Marcus photos it appears I can reduce the hex head to 6.75mm and pass thru the balance beam.
This would allow me to make the cable at the bench and allow removal.

This end fitting is very specific to VSM brakes with Schellhaas conversion.

 

[Vincent Brake]

I might add: do some measurements before.

Seen oversize main axles.

Seen undersize bearings.

And V. V.
....
Try to aim mininal half thou or 0.01mm tight fit.
If tighter 'tjek' clearance on outer ring.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Looking at the front brakes again and how to fabricate the best brake cable end fittings.
The hex cable ends require me to fit the final 5mm end stop after it has been passed thru the balance beam, so looking at Marcus photos it appears I can reduce the hex head to 6.75mm and pass thru the balance beam.
This would allow me to make the cable at the bench and allow removal.

This end fitting is very specific to VSM brakes with Schellhaas conversion.



View attachment 41278

View attachment 41279

I Wonder if the shoulder you plan to remove is required to be there , without it any stress is on those fine threads.

 

[craig]

Thank you, I am sure the threads will be fine in this app, it is the 5mm birdcage/solder I need to provide that has me concerned.

I have the engine cases and battery tray in rattle can 2k epoxy primer at this moment requiring a 12hr cure per instructions. Rattle can gloss black 2k paint scheduled for tomorrow if temp and humidity allow.
No solder, flux or 5mm washer yet.