FT: Frame (Twin) Want to Fit Bushing/Bearing To Hills Style Stand Pivot Tube. Which To Use?

[CarlHungness]

That means the tube has a reducer in it. I made up for the weight by using 6061 T6 aluminum for the side plates which I think will withstand the weight. I'm also thinking about using aircraft streamlined tube for the legs which should look a lot spiffier than round legs. The same shape may be used for the actuating arm on the left leg if I
can fit it in. Again, it will be more streamlined than the round rod, plus it may give a bigger foot print for one's foot.
I want a lot larger feet too, curved from the point of touch-down so I'm working on the transition from streamline tube to flat foot.

I don't think Dave would have wanted the weight of a heavy wall tube.

 

[CarlHungness]

Well, if you look at a violin you will see that it has two pieces of black wood with a white piece in the center
and it is inlaid half way into the top and the back, no small feat given the thickness of the plates. One has to
mark where the purfling goes, no easy trick either as it does not point to the center of the C bout joints, it is off to one side ever so slightly. Then, one has to miter the corners of this purfling just perfectly or it won't match in the corners. The end result is a beautiful inlay that has been used for centuries. It neither adds nor detracts from the tone of the instrument, but it is surely judged by violinists. Why is it there? No one knows, but it has to be there and it has to be properly executed.
Therefore my center stand better look a little different from all the other stands under Vincents or it wouldn't be a Carl Hungness product, streamlining be damned. Then again I have made a career out of losing the plot because since I was 24 years old (56 years ago) I have said, "Think Opposite" every morning and I could regale you with tales where the slogan has worked for me. Overall, I think the oil will slide off it easier, and no one has used streamline
tubing to make one, so my opposite thinking comes through for me again. I just hope the feet don't look like they are related to the club foot syndrome.
I'll probably get some thinner wall tubing for the main cross-beam too. Since my TIG welder will be here in a few weeks I may make another in aluminum if the first one works well. I think an aluminum stand should be engine turned (jeweling to some..interlocking swirls). My front speedo cover plate for my discs is engine turned and I think it looks lovely. Think Opposite, the term will serve you well.

 

[Shane998]

I agree. But I'm still wondering what size tubing, OD and ID the Hills stand uses. The Hills stand has the right hand
plate tapped to accept the bolt (from a video I've seen).

Yes the plate is tapped to accept the bolt but you leave that a little loose to allow stand to pivot and use another nut to ‘lock ‘ with the plate.

 

[Peter Holmes]

I imagine it would quite difficult to improve on the "Dave Hills Stand" I am aware that one of our Forum Users is not a great fan of its small feet, among other things, but I have always found mine to be practical, and an excellent addition to my bike, one of the best improvements that I have ever made in fact, well done Dave, and thanks.

One thing that did irritate me a little was the gear lever pedal rubber, it did not seem up to the job, either splitting or working its way off, if you glue it on, it cannot rotate, and for the loads involved it is quite a small contact area with the underside of your boot, I just didn't like it, so I improved it, to my way of thinking anyway. The FT100 foot pedal rotates to maintain the horizontal position when in rest and in use, and maintains that position by using the spring, ball bearing and dimple method.

 

[Peter Holmes]

Well, if you look at a violin you will see that it has two pieces of black wood with a white piece in the center
and it is inlaid half way into the top and the back, no small feat given the thickness of the plates. One has to
mark where the purfling goes, no easy trick either as it does not point to the center of the C bout joints, it is off to one side ever so slightly. Then, one has to miter the corners of this purfling just perfectly or it won't match in the corners. The end result is a beautiful inlay that has been used for centuries. It neither adds nor detracts from the tone of the instrument, but it is surely judged by violinists. Why is it there? No one knows, but it has to be there and it has to be properly executed.
Therefore my center stand better look a little different from all the other stands under Vincents or it wouldn't be a Carl Hungness product, streamlining be damned. Then again I have made a career out of losing the plot because since I was 24 years old (56 years ago) I have said, "Think Opposite" every morning and I could regale you with tales where the slogan has worked for me. Overall, I think the oil will slide off it easier, and no one has used streamline
tubing to make one, so my opposite thinking comes through for me again. I just hope the feet don't look like they are related to the club foot syndrome.
I'll probably get some thinner wall tubing for the main cross-beam too. Since my TIG welder will be here in a few weeks I may make another in aluminum if the first one works well. I think an aluminum stand should be engine turned (jeweling to some..interlocking swirls). My front speedo cover plate for my discs is engine turned and I think it looks lovely. Think Opposite, the term will serve you well.

That means the tube has a reducer in it. I made up for the weight by using 6061 T6 aluminum for the side plates which I think will withstand the weight. I'm also thinking about using aircraft streamlined tube for the legs which should look a lot spiffier than round legs. The same shape may be used for the actuating arm on the left leg if I
can fit it in. Again, it will be more streamlined than the round rod, plus it may give a bigger foot print for one's foot.
I want a lot larger feet too, curved from the point of touch-down so I'm working on the transition from streamline tube to flat foot.

I think some aspects of this are great ideas, aircraft streamlined tubing to mention one, perhaps ailerons could be added also to assist when taking off and landing at Ballaugh Bridge for instance!

 

[timetraveller]

Let us not mock the efforts of an artistically creative here. Let us wait to see what it looks and performs like. We might all want one later in the year. The only advice that I would offer is, if it is necessary to fit bushes into the cross tube, to make these of steel or stainless steel. The total amount of rotations these are going to be subject to is low while they will be exposed to road grit. Any soft bearing material is likely to get imbedded with the grit. A grease nipple on the cross tube to allow grit to be forced out every now and then might be a good idea.

 

[Peter Holmes]

With regard to wear on the moving parts of the stand, the pivot tube, would the wear be any greater than on the standard fitment rear stand, since its inception has anyone felt the need to bush the rear stand pivots to eradicate wear, if wear were perceptible in the first place. I don't think even Vic would go to these lengths of engineering sophistication.

 

[timetraveller]

Ah! I can see it now. One pulls up at the traffic lights, slowly rises into the air. waits for the lights to start and change, engage first gear, take the engine to 7,000 rpm and then as the device lowers enough for the rear tyre to touch one is off with a wild wheelie, a terrifying shriek. an increased laundry bill and gasps of horror or admiration from the surrounding car drivers. WHEEEEEE

 

[Peter Holmes]

Let us not mock the efforts of an artistically creative here. Let us wait to see what it looks and performs like. We might all want one later in the year. The only advice that I would offer is, if it is necessary to fit bushes into the cross tube, to make these of steel or stainless steel. The total amount of rotations these are going to be subject to is low while they will be exposed to road grit. Any soft bearing material is likely to get imbedded with the grit. A grease nipple on the cross tube to allow grit to be forced out every now and then might be a good idea.

Come on Norman, should we really be mocking the efforts of the artistically creative on this forum!

 

[timetraveller]

All I know is that some artistic people have something I don't when it comes to creativity. Years ago I designed an observatory for a project. It had a square plan and all the things one would need to make it a working observatory. I then passed it over to a artistically creative architect. It was still a square shape but the entrance was now in a corner of the square. An overhanging roof went all the way round and it looked much better in many ways. I will be interested to see what Carl comes up with when using different forms of tube to those originally used. It might look spectacular or it might be the proverbial badger's botty. We will see.