I think it helps a lot to weigh more than 200 lbs. My bike almost always starts first kick. I use the John McDougal method. It has MKII 105 cams and 8:1 pistons. One thing that can help a lot is a center stand. It makes it way easier to kick. You might need one of those Carl. I have Mikuni VM carbs 34mm. The starting circuit on those is very effective. You just have to keep the throttle closed for it to work. A few years ago for about a month I was having trouble starting this bike from cold. It turned out the friction screw on my choke lever had backed off so when I operated that lever it would return to the closed position so the starting circuit was inoperative. I tightened the screw with my leatherman that I keep in my toolbox and the problem was solved.
ET: Engine (Twin) Starting Procedure Twin…Using Chokes or Not?
- Thread starter CarlHungness
- Start date
I have a Mikuni VM28s fitted and a BTH on the Shadow with MKIII cams. If I haven't started it in awhile I open both fuel taps, open the enricher circuit on the Mikunis, and lift the compression release, then push it through a few easy rotation. Then I release the compression release, bring it round to compression, lift the release, bring it round to the next compression, lift again. Then give the kickstart a good shove and away she goes. If it has she's been started recently, I just omit the few easy rotations and she's away. Now I'm in the 200 pound range but even when I was lighter and she was fitted with Lucas Rita and MKIIs this was my routine. To be totally honest she fitted with 7:1 pistons. I've tried the swing and release method and I can get her to go on that, but being short in stature I find it awkward at best. So having a Dave Hills stand fitted and doing the ease over compression method is by far the easiest method.
Steven
Steven
You have good points, a little more weight might help along with the center stand. My prop-stand is extended with a cloven hoof on the bottom and I do
make use of it a bit, as it is insurance for the bike tipping over. I've considered one of the Hill center stands and might get one. I have 276 carbs and she starts with a vengeance when she fires.
This is a fun thread...one guy tickles the front carb only, the other does the rear.
Another uses chokes, and the other fella has no chokes.
I have started the bike on the rear stand a few times in the shop and cracking lugs nothwithstanding, it is a whole lot easier to kick over. Maybe I do need a center stand.
It is a notable point about starting the bike on center or side stands, especially with the original side bowl carby's........On a side stand the rear carb bowl is high, so probably no need to tickle that one, only the front one.......of course all this depends on if your float levels are correct or not.........The tread down center stands are certainly great for stability when starting.
Good point. The more I think about it, the more I believe my own method of kick and release at the same time just isn't working. I am going to do bit of testing to get a full swing through the process. Generally I've let the bike sit over the winter but now I can see another goal. And my extended prop stand with the cloven hoof actually lets me give her a pretty good boot under most circumstances. If there's an incline to the left I struggle, so I'll still consider the center stand.
I consider the D. Hills center stand an essential piece of kit. I fitted one the Shadow first, when I purchased my Comet back in 2003, one of the first, if not the first, thin I did was fit a D. Hills center stand. When a new owner asks what they essentials they should get for bike, I advise a center stand. You are correct in saying that starting on the rear stand can caused cracked lugs, fortunately I haven't experienced that malady before getting a center stand. Also the center stand is a damn sight easier to use than the rear stand. I've seen some of the riders taller than myself pop their bikes on to the center stand before even getting off the bike. I only ever use the side stand to dismount, once off she goes straight on to the center stand. Once started she rolls right off.
Steven
Steven
Did you cut the legs to fit your suspension system? My bike has longer rear springs so it sits differently than stock. Thus your comment of being able to pop the bike on the stand tells me it fits their suspension system perfectly. I did write to Conway and asked if I could buy the stand without the side plates as I want them in aluminum/and or will they supply in aluminum. Once upon a time I did have one of Dave's center stands but decided not to install it as my lengthened prop stands were doing the job just fine. But I'm considering one now.
I can't work out why they can not simply supply them with adjustable length feet......threaded with a locknut on each leg........Is that not possible.