OP: Oil Pump A nice Ulimate Engine

[greg brillus]

I assume you lot are aware that a roller bearing crank does not need lots of oil pressure............Or are we talking a one piece crank with split rod and slipper type bearing shells...............

 

[Bill Cannon]

I'm not sure how you could achieve it but wouldn't it make sense to take feed from high pressure pump to drive side mains first and reverse the flow through the crankshaft?

 

[Vincent Brake]

Here is the rough idea for putting a pump in my cases, run from a chain on the large idler, so pump runs 1:3,25 crank, say 1500 rpm at engine 5000. I can fine tune with the chain and oil pump thickness, (height), I milll the old pump housing away and weld up a flat surface to mount the pump and spann the chain and can do the pipework by drilling, to the original filter, and thus to the timing cover.
Now making a manifold to test the pump at 1500 and 200 rpm and see how i can settle at say 2-2,5 bar. with following Holes:
4 x 1,2mm at rockers
6 x 1,0 at crank
2 x 2,5 at cam spindles
For overflow i make a separate pipe right away into the oil tank, as i am afraid it will pump the tank empty as it will normaly be flung away by the flywheels.

NOW how do i get a one off nice sump with finns and round shape......., the file and grinder?

 

[Chris Launders]

A section of scrap cylinder muff cut in half vertically would give you a curved front and back (cut front to back not side to side) then there's only the straight section to machine and weld together.

 

[greg brillus]

Wonder if you could make a pump assembly that fits inside the oil filter housing, and just use a longer chain.

 

[Vincent Brake]

i was also thinkering about the idea of putting a scroll 1:3 ratio and than an inline oilpump made of 2 sets planetary gears. In the standard housing.
Lower intake, top exit, one could even get two pumps in. lenght of gear giving the difference in dillivery. Apart from having to time it, in the end it might be easyer......
Bit small gears though.... one good swarf from a burn out and its gone...

 

[Vincent Brake]

A section of scrap cylinder muff cut in half vertically would give you a curved front and back (cut front to back not side to side) then there's only the straight section to machine and weld together.

or i go Guzzi...

 

[Vincent Brake]

Today tested with a so called trochiod pump round 40 mm 20 high, with both iso 5-30 and iso 20-50 at 15 and 75 degree.
with 10x round 1 mm and 2x 2 mm openings, nice to see the results:
rpm - bar
5-30 oil
cold-190-0,2
- 300-0,3
- 500-0,7
- 700 -1,3
- 1000-2,1 +overflow
hot
190-0,1isch
500-0,3
700-0,5
1000-1,1

20-50 oil
cold
-190-0,7
- 500-1,8
- 700 -2,1 +overflow
- 1000-2,1 + lot of overflow
hot
190-0,2
500-0,5
700-0,8
1000-1,3 bar

now the big question for me, where to settle?
and i see i must take care of the flow back

 

[Vincent Brake]

i dont have to worry it wont scavenge oil up, as it did 2 sec for 250 mm high, from an empty no oiled pump, (i cleaned it with petrol) at tick over 190 pump rpm

 

[passenger0_0]

Today tested with a so called trochiod pump round 40 mm 20 high, with both iso 5-30 and iso 20-50 at 15 and 75 degree.
with 10x round 1 mm and 2x 2 mm openings, nice to see the results:
rpm - bar
5-30 oil
cold-190-0,2
- 300-0,3
- 500-0,7
- 700 -1,3
- 1000-2,1 +overflow
View attachment 17850

Vincent - are you planning on using a plain bearing big-end? If you're not I suggest you moderate your big-end feed with a restrictor as too much oil can destroy rolling element bearing really quickly. Maybe you're planning on re-directing this excess oil to the cams and followers? Having said that, you can never have too much scavenge capacity as this helps keep crankcase pressures low. Wishing you luck with this project. .....