I think that Vincent is interested in building a very long lived reliable bike, not the most powerful around.
What like mine ! Cams I think I can say I've cured with the last 200k miles with negligible wear it's the B/ends that don't last me and I only tour / cruise original just under 100k miles then three Alpha B/E's (Vincent's bearings were 1.5 weeks wages Alpha only a weeks wage) in four years during apprenticeship just over a 100k, going to sea got more money and living all supplied on board (passengers as well !) That lasted 100k plus miles to 1990, rebuild in France & Honda pump fitted Alpha Romao pistons 9.5 : 1 C.R. Then 2010 the petrol thing or a coil packing up on my twin plug set up using Scentilla mag burnt a "20 mm " hole in rear piston and dropped front exhaust v/v seat all at the same time (instantaneously) 40 miles from home, her wasn't happy as she had grand kids with one ill, Had to clean crank cases so took timing side fly wheel off and first track of 1/4 x 1/4" caged rollers was well Brinneled so that followed the v/v seat head to Bob Dunn, 9 months before I got it back on the road again so Old Harry got used more frequently.
Main bearings never seem to be a problem other than coming loose but a good locking method used is OK several suitable to choose from. So now doing a Royal Enfield type floating bush B/E in an "A" Comet as it has a constant oil supply and making the supply gear wheels 3/16" wide so it will supply half as much again, the scavenge gear p/p remaining 1/4" wide (should cope with less C/case gases going to the oil tank.
Now the post war Vins I'm keeping the Honda p/p theme but buying the same type of pump but double the capacity
as the element in side just gets wider like a gear pump. The the p/p discharge I'm intending to direct into the filter housing from inside the timing cover, will supply photo when done. Also plain bush bearing for B/E.
Now we have oodles of oil, all filtered which will be delivered into the timing cover where it will keep the main-shaft pressurized with a sealing arrangement between quill & shaft although with try with out first (keeping it standard ! )it's a good tell-tail when the flywheels go out of alignment and it gets snapped off }}} Then the pressure relief valve can be used with modification so the spring pressure can be adjusted, and in the jet holder going to the cams / cylinders put in a bigger jet and tap the inside from the top with an adjusting screw , replacing the acorn nut after adjustment.
Has any one got the capabilities to work out the pressure created by centrifugal force at the B/E considering it will have a pressure behind it, or as it is in original set up it will actually suck oil along the main shaft ? School days too far back. say at 3,000 RPM
Is any one familiar with the Royal Enfield B/E assembly and oil system ?
Photos.
Crank Pin secured in drive side fly wheel at 3.24 tonnes, ground and polished pin, knurled timing side to increase press only 1.5 tonnes.
floating bush machined herring bone pattern to get oil out to the edges but did not take grooves to the edge stopping short by a couple of mm.
Here is a suitable location drilling into oil filter chamber, plenty of meat around over 1/2" depth of material from faced off area.
Drill is into chamber above out let hole over 3/8"thick from outside filter housing
bananaman.