Series D details
- Thread starter craig
- Start date
Are these being viewed from the front?
Yes. If it is of any interest I could also take pictures from the rear and side. You will note that there is a flange pointing downwards from the muffs. This has to have an inverted 'v' shape cut out of it to clear the 'beaks' on the front of the side panels.
Muffs lowered 1", holes drilled, muffs mounted with rubber step washers and acorns, center windscreen wing nut replaced with acorn, ........progress made. Victor windscreen almost complete!
Still require key switch, move head temp indicator under right muff, install clock at left muff, install Victor decal on dashboard, gasket material needs to be added to muff surface mounting, maybe some Loctite on muff bolts/acorns..........still have not added sound deadener peel and stick to cowl.
SL1 is a very solid assembly now.
Still require key switch, move head temp indicator under right muff, install clock at left muff, install Victor decal on dashboard, gasket material needs to be added to muff surface mounting, maybe some Loctite on muff bolts/acorns..........still have not added sound deadener peel and stick to cowl.
SL1 is a very solid assembly now.
I think it looks surprisingly good on an unfaired bike.
When the originals were produced UK law required a front registration number visible from both sides but the factory moulded in a flat land for a somewhat illegal forward facing number plate under the headlight. Front motorcycle numbers are no longer required by UK law so, with the advent of speed cameras, some riders have removed them and now display a Vincent Scroll there. Have you sourced a Victor transfer? I thought that they were as hard to find as hens teeth embeded in rocking horse droppings.
If you don't want the thickness of a gasket you could protect the cowl gel coat with a layer of gloss black signwriting vinyl.
I have never found the need for soundproofing or loctite on any of these components and would expect the rubber step washers to prevent any loosening.
When the originals were produced UK law required a front registration number visible from both sides but the factory moulded in a flat land for a somewhat illegal forward facing number plate under the headlight. Front motorcycle numbers are no longer required by UK law so, with the advent of speed cameras, some riders have removed them and now display a Vincent Scroll there. Have you sourced a Victor transfer? I thought that they were as hard to find as hens teeth embeded in rocking horse droppings.
If you don't want the thickness of a gasket you could protect the cowl gel coat with a layer of gloss black signwriting vinyl.
I have never found the need for soundproofing or loctite on any of these components and would expect the rubber step washers to prevent any loosening.
Thanks , yes I like the look as well. I considered Avon fairings, and I like their period look as well , the series D cowl is quite unique with a skinny windscreen and hand muffs bolted on.....no mistaking the look. Victor decals were sourced quickly from VOC spares.........fantastic resource! Also the windscreen, and all the little pieces from VOC spares.
7 deg F today, maybe high of 20..........I am not sure I am going to test ride. Didn't fit heated grips.
No paint so far, just nice gel coat. Temp gage on brake lever is to be moved to SL16 upper bolt. I need a clock on left side.....working on that.
I need to fit an extension on Smiths trip reset.
Lots of static electricity, simply polishing dash scratches moves ammeter around, half scale movement.....do I need to attach a ground strap and drag it around?
Kind of a cockpit feel to windscreen and dashboard.............could fit a 12" video screen between damper knob and gages.
7 deg F today, maybe high of 20..........I am not sure I am going to test ride. Didn't fit heated grips.
No paint so far, just nice gel coat. Temp gage on brake lever is to be moved to SL16 upper bolt. I need a clock on left side.....working on that.
I need to fit an extension on Smiths trip reset.
Lots of static electricity, simply polishing dash scratches moves ammeter around, half scale movement.....do I need to attach a ground strap and drag it around?
Kind of a cockpit feel to windscreen and dashboard.............could fit a 12" video screen between damper knob and gages.
As you have a good gelcoat I'd avoid paint. My cowlings were painted and any knick exposes primer. My Primmer Poshest Panniers are in gel coat and sliding the bike down the road on them merely reduced the gloss, leaving them black. The scratches can be polished out.
I use furniture polish on the outside surfaces and it doesn't seem to promote static.
I use furniture polish on the outside surfaces and it doesn't seem to promote static.
The trick which Phil used was to mix black pigment with the layup resin. That way the GRP is black all the way through. It is hard to tell from the photos but it seems that your cowl is black on the inside but that might have been done by just using black pigment with a final layer of tissue in the layup. From the photographs it looks as though where you have cut holes to mount items the internal is white. If so, then scratches will show up white. But consider that the outer layer of most boats is gel coat and it is much more wear resistant than most paints. Many twenty year old boat can still look new with a bit of a polish so if you do not scratch it then is should look as good as it does now for decades. Nice job.
The liner when first built was Gel coat black, for the first few years there were many repairs, I found that laying on gel coat , sanding in steps to a 1000 grit then a buff with 3M micro finish, the white stuff, will eliminate the ouches. you have done your self proud, nice job.
