Series D details

[craig]

Yes, I figured you were just kidding, but I still like black wiring on Vincent.
I am making progress.........I actually drilled 3/8 lower holes in SL1 cowl to take Peters bushings. I ended up drilling SL1 where it looked best for the lower mounts and will use snails as needed.
Working on getting windscreen positioned to allow rear holes to be drilled. New softer gasket found at Lowes - garage door bottom seal $7 - 2 1/4" wide (9 foot long) so trim off narrow edge. Lots of gaskets left.

 

[craig]

Here is what I have done so far around snails -
Piece of 1/4" steel bar, cut off 1 1/2" piece, drill 3 holes, tap each at 1/4BSF, fairly close pattern.
Run 1/4 bsf bolt from inside SL3 to pick up the 1/4 thickness, use washer to allow correct bolt length.
Make an 1/4 bsf "acorn " bolt to use from outside into new steel tab (snail)..............pretty crude but progress was needed.

 

[timetraveller]

Craig, if I understand correctly then you want to be easily able to tilt the light to account for different weights on the rear of the bike. By using snail cams you are going to be trying to tilt the whole screen assembly and it will not want to bend where it has the steering damper passing through it. You could, of course, fit a rubber grommet into that hole but then the vibration might be unacceptable. You already have a tiltable headlight in that there are three adjustable springs with screws passing through them to allow headlamp alignment. Would it not be possible to design something which allowed you to rotate the top screw via a flexible drive, the rear of which would be hidden under and to the rear of the top face of the fibreglass. Just a thought as I would not want to see all your hard work and thought either not working or straining the top surface of the fibreglass and causing stress fractures in the paint.

 

[craig]

TT, I am probably overstating what this adjustment can do..........I am really trying to get this Comet back on the road with a nice Victor windscreen and hand muffs......anything more is incidental. I share your concerns about stressing the fiberglass. Hopefully no paint, simple black gel coat is all for now. I am being rather careful with gel surfaces so far, not perfect, but nice. More snow today.
The VOC windscreen is not drilled symmetrically......not even close. Are replacements always drilled as this one is? Fitting windscreen with quick remove hardware for van transporting.
Using a piece of dental floss and a weight to get a sense of alignment from windscreen top. Still waiting for Lucas key switch. It is on the way from eBay - switch will on/off battery to ammeter.

 

[b'knighted]

Hi Craig,

It is looking good.
I use big washers over rubber washers on the steering damper bolt.
I have never used a VOC screen but am on my third screen. I put a couple of spares into stock when they became available in the eighties.
Then the screen that had been on for about 20years broke when I pushed the bike away from its propstand, taking down three Comets in a domino effect., I had my hands full trying to push some lengths of silver steel into the inadequate tool tray.
I rode the Knight with no screen fitted ( Thought Police trim?) over the summer and found it very comfortable. I have never had handlebar muffs fitted.
The second screen only lasted a couple of months before I threw the bike up the road on ice.
Each replacement screen fitted without any redrilling or any issue with alignment.
I understand the wing nut but find it unattractive. If the stud it screws onto is fixed, why not use an acorn nut? Alternatively fit captive nuts similar to those holding your switch /ammeter ring screws and use button headed screws.
I wonder if anyone has tried varying the screen rake, BMW style, to improve weather protection or streamlining.

 

[ClassicBiker]

Hi Craig,

I understand the wing nut but find it unattractive. If the stud it screws onto is fixed, why not use an acorn nut? Alternatively fit captive nuts similar to those holding your switch /ammeter ring screws and use button headed screws.

Craig,
I think what you are doing is really good but I have to agree with b'knighted, the wing nuts do detract from the excellent work you have done so far. Myself I would consider making up some thumb nuts.
Steven

 

[craig]

I will look into a more classic look to the currently used wing nut. The center stud is fixed for right now. Got the windscreen nut plates installed and the windscreen mounted for trial. The hand muffs are next to fit and seem to be a problem with my schemes for quick install windscreen. I look thru my D fiberglass photos and the hand muffs are installed all over the place, although it doesn't look it. So I am going for the high mount position to allow best wind protection for my hands. Just clamped on for fitting right now......not an easy fit. I need some gasketing between the cowl and hand muffs

 

[craig]

front view , as I try to find best position for muffs

 

[b'knighted]

My headcowl has never been drilled for handlebar muffs. If you look, in JP Bickerstaff's book, at the 40-40 meet photo you see whichis my bike.
Phil Primmer borrowed my unused Pip Harper mouldings to make plugs for his standard and extended muffs and supplied me with both lengths.
We discussed the possibility of moulding a mating face to closely match the cutaway in the head cowl but to be bonded to the muff flange. This could then be used to fit the muffs using the tiny G clamps supplied for mudflap fitting. They were intended to be removable leaving no trace.

 

[b'knighted]

I always thought that the shape of the muff was upside down and that it would work better with the flat on its underside. Obviously its flange is not designed for this orientation.