I have a rubber tensioner installed for 8600 miles, it has no wear. The installation angle seems fine. Unit Triumphs use a rubber tensioner blade and they never give any trouble, I have a T120 with 60,000 miles (since I have owned it) and it still has the original rubberized tensioner.
ET: Engine (Twin) V3 PD9 Primary Drive Tensioner
- Thread starter Rob H
- Start date
I will shortly be building my primary drive. I have what appears to be a new Renold primary chain (and also a rubber coated tensioner blade). Are you advising me to fit a Tsubaki now, or fit the Renolds chain and buy a Tsubaki when it needs replacing?
Paul
I wouldn't use a Renold primary chain now having had a new one stretched beyond adjustment in less than 2 race meetings (sidecar). Buy a roll of Tsubaki chain for the price of the Renold and you'll never look back.
In Trev's post #10 above............ it probably depends on how effective your ESA is as well. Remember the whole thing is a compromise. Talking Renolds chain, I'm not sure the chain available now is the same as it was a few years ago........The VOC spares co sell both makes.
If you talk to a chain specialist, you will discover that, back in the good old days, there were broadly two types of chain. First, the 'industry standard' stuff for multiples of uses including conveyor systems and the like. Second, 'automotive standard' for applications such as ours. More expensive due to higher quality materials and build standards. The latter has been dying-out rapidly. Tsubaki was the last to offer 'automotive standard' - up to about 6 or 7 years ago; then they too phased it out.
There is only one standard now - 'Industry Standard'. Within that, you may find some slightly better than others simply by experiment. For example, I wouldn't knowingly purchase chain (or bearings) of Chinese manufacture, nor the split-roller Renolds - although I am reliably informed Renolds stopped that practice well over a decade ago; but watch-out for New Old Stock! With careful scrutiny, by eye or magnifying glass, you can see the join in the rollers - in which case avoid at all costs!
So the moral of the story is: buy a reputable make, but change your chains more often; especially the Triplex Primary. The cost of a full bottom-end rebuild, including welding and machining crankcase/chaincase back together is astronomical. Don't ask me how I know!
Peter B
There is only one standard now - 'Industry Standard'. Within that, you may find some slightly better than others simply by experiment. For example, I wouldn't knowingly purchase chain (or bearings) of Chinese manufacture, nor the split-roller Renolds - although I am reliably informed Renolds stopped that practice well over a decade ago; but watch-out for New Old Stock! With careful scrutiny, by eye or magnifying glass, you can see the join in the rollers - in which case avoid at all costs!
So the moral of the story is: buy a reputable make, but change your chains more often; especially the Triplex Primary. The cost of a full bottom-end rebuild, including welding and machining crankcase/chaincase back together is astronomical. Don't ask me how I know!
Peter B
The Chain Man says there are two types of Renolds chain but the one to use is "made in England" stamped on the side links the other stuff has split rollers. All four of the chains I've replaced have done 100k plus, also had to change clutch sprocket as new chain rides high on sprocket pushing on dynamo drive up and makes the dynamo whine or some thing but a whine is heard. 2007 doing the Irish Rally my de-tent spring went and ended up having to take off the ESA .
When fitting a new clutch sprocket drill two (diagonally opposite) of the peripheral holes bigger so the ESA doesn't have to be removed to remove / change cam-plate de-tent spring.
bananaman.
When fitting a new clutch sprocket drill two (diagonally opposite) of the peripheral holes bigger so the ESA doesn't have to be removed to remove / change cam-plate de-tent spring.
bananaman.
Are there any high mileage riders in the club using primary belt drives? do they offer a safer alternative and can you successfully drive a generator from them.
I asked Bob Newby about that belt kit he sells with the double sided toothed belt to run the generator, but he said it will not fit under a standard primary cover. So that's not much use to most Vincent owners who run a stock cover.
I'm certainly not a high mileage Vincenteer, but my first belt lasted a few hundred miles because it was an oil resistant type which are weak. After fitting main bearing seal, the correct replacement was changed after about ten thousand miles because it was looking scruffy but still working OK.
Bill
Bill
My Renold primary chain is probably an early '60s one, fitted but never used. I think the owner began a rebuild but gave up when he discovered how much needed fixing.