ET: Engine (Twin) Seeking Ignition Suggestions For Twin - Can't Get The ATD Fitted

CarlHungness

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Based on what you have stated so far, I think it is safe to say the ATD is knackered. If you are reasonably sure the taper is still ok, just as a test, you could take the ATD and lock it solid. Then reinstall it on the bike and time the engine so it is firing a few degrees before TDC. It won’t make your compression any better, but if it started before, there’s a reasonable chance it should start now. Or you could just spend the energy pushing the PayPal button for your new ATD.

The second last page has a note about installing the ATD.

Based on what you have stated so far, I think it is safe to say the ATD is knackered. If you are reasonably sure the taper is still ok, just as a test, you could take the ATD and lock it solid. Then reinstall it on the bike and time the engine so it is firing a few degrees before TDC. It won’t make your compression any better, but if it started before, there’s a reasonable chance it should start now. Or you could just spend the energy pushing the PayPal button for your new ATD.

The second last page has a note about installing the ATD.

File will not load, says potential security risk. WIll try to cut and paste, but I've installed the ATD enough times previously to be on a first name basis with the left hand/right hand threads and have successfully got the thing on the taper several times.
 

CarlHungness

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Based on what you have stated so far, I think it is safe to say the ATD is knackered. If you are reasonably sure the taper is still ok, just as a test, you could take the ATD and lock it solid. Then reinstall it on the bike and time the engine so it is firing a few degrees before TDC. It won’t make your compression any better, but if it started before, there’s a reasonable chance it should start now. Or you could just spend the energy pushing the PayPal button for your new ATD.

The second last page has a note about installing the ATD.

I copied and pasted and DID get it to open..thanks so much. If you click on the link it gives us the Security Risk notice and won't load.
 

CarlHungness

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Normans idea is quite good but i would use not the clutch .I would engage second gear and pulling the decompression lever.Then when the bike is about 20 miles fast I would let the lever go slowly to the point where full compression lies on. Regards Erik
I didn't even think of using the de-comp..I jumped to the conclusion of using the clutch. If I ever have to push it to start it your suggestion is a good one.
 

CarlHungness

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VOC Member
If been said many times before on here dont expect to see a strong B-TH spark it was shown to me by the developer of the B-TH system under test and I could not see one but I could see the pin hole it burnt through a piece of normal weight paper!
I've said it previously, your post really has me turned upside down. I can SEE sparks from the B-TH, much less resorting to having it burn a lil' hole in a piece of paper. I DID get it running again with the B-TH but was rough as could be so went to the Lucas. And the Lucas fired it for 60 seconds and died. Have re-installed the B-TH twice with no results and the spark does NOT seem to go forward from the electrode but backwards..sometimes. I'm causing a lot of consternation among the membership and have to apologize for doing so, and really appreciate all the help I've been getting. I feel a bit ham-fisted for acts I've previously done successfully, so I'm talking to meself now.
 

CarlHungness

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VOC Member
If been said many times before on here dont expect to see a strong B-TH spark it was shown to me by the developer of the B-TH system under test and I could not see one but I could see the pin hole it burnt through a piece of normal weight paper!
To make myself feel better after reading your burn-thru-the-paper experiment, I just popped $84 USA dollars
out of my sock and sent my B-TH back to the UK to be tested. I told them to give me a price if they can fix,
if in fact it is duff. Or, if it can't be, keep it and don't send it back, I'm donating it to you. If it can be fixed I
don't need no stinkin' ATD. Or if nothing's wrong with it I'll let out a primal scream you'll be able to hear
from Indiana to London.
 

Hugo Myatt

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VOC Member
I've experienced the left-hand, right hand dilemma years ago and learned that all one has to do is PULL the whole unit backwards, screw in the bolt with the left hand thread til you feel it clear the boss, pull it back some more until you feel the right hand threads grip the nose of the mag, and then it screws right on. Easy to say, especially for someone who has two good thumbs (my right thumb DID NOT MOVE for 37 years) and after operations I now have about 50% usage. But I've worked with my hands long enough to know how to use my other fingers, awkward as hell, but I finally get the job done. Thus I CAN get the right hand threads started after fiddling, and can get the ATD onto the shaft as it ought to be, and can get it set...and burp when I see the darn ears won't retract. So I loosen, fiddle, tighten..etc, and when I JUST tighten the bolt with fingers...the ears lock...and I try to feel if there's slop in the unit. There must be. So hopefully an ATD rebuild will solve the issue. Anyhow, if you'd build me a magneto with welding strength spark I'd be happier.
I hesitate to join this discussion as I am no engineer and barely a mechanic. I have been riding Vincents for 60 years, both Comets and a Rapide. In that time, I have had a few problems with ATDs, namely stripped fibre pinions (once notably on a burn up with George Lazenby in Park Lane), sheered advance stop ears and broken springs. I have also had this problem of the ATD stuck at full advance. All my replacement ATDS were second hand and I admit I have never lapped in the tapers on any of them. The ATD in question would stick at full advance whenever it was tightened up on the magneto. I suspected it was binding on the crankcase. I stuck some plasticene on the back side and screwed it on. This quickly showed that it was, in fact, binding on the crankcase. At some time in its previous life the taper had been enthusiastically lapped in on the magneto shaft, probably more than once, thus taking up all the necessary clearance and was therefore useless. Incidentally, although I have never lapped in any of the ATDs, none of the ones that I have used has ever slipped.
 
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Peter Holmes

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VOC Member
I think Carl is chasing shadows (if you will excuse the pun) surely two of the problems that have been suggested are extremely easy to check and either confirm your suspicions, or rule out completely, if the ATD is slipping on the taper, then once set at say 34 degrees advance, kick the engine over a few times, and then check it again, if it has moved it would immediately be apparent, the same goes for cams slipping on camshafts.

BT-H magnetos do not throw off big fat blue sparks, but they certainly work, they are not just made for Vincents, but all the British Bikes that used Lucas type magnetos, if they did not work I am certain they would have been exposed as charlatans a long time ago, I have been very happy with my BT-Hs barely perceptible sparks for the past 18 years, only the condensers let me down once.

Vincents will run very well, even when in appalling mechanical condition, as I can testify as recently as last year at the Far Far North Rally, front big end disintegrated, thrown debris up into the front cylinder bore taking the piston and liner with it, and it was running very well indeed, two up.

I think the most likely outcome will be a fuel problem, but I think I would have given up long ago, and sought the help of a second pair of eyes and hands.

And in reply to Hugo, I agree with his comments, but having said that, I have lapped, but only with the finest grade paste, and just until you can see that you have full contact of the taper with a fine grey finish, we are not talking lapping in heads and barrels here, or valves.
 
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Speedtwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have noted that my BTH on the Rapide produces such a strong final spark it is not in any circumstance visible to the naked eye.
The use of a spark revealer inline cap is an essential bit of cheap kit.
Buy two, turn the lights off in the garage start the bike and crank up Radio 2.

I can testify there is certainly enough power generated via the BTH to knock you on your arse!

Al
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
One other B-TH point you dont need a large plug gap
A quote from the B-TH web site
N.B A local Dyno expert who has tuned many race winning vintage machines has found that a plug gap as low as 0.007" (Seven thousandths of an inch) does not reduce the power output registered on the dynamomete.
 
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