In the thread referred to above, Albervin makes an important observation about doing the gland nuts up last. I use a little 4" long ring spanner and slightly heavier and wider copper washers on the rocker feedbolts .I have never had one loosen with standard oil lines, but if you have longer lengths of flexible pipe you need to clip them up snug. The 1/4" BSF setscrews do need cinching up occasionally.
ET: Engine (Twin) Rocker Feed Bolt washer - Comet - fibre or copper
- Thread starter poor1
- Start date
I use copper on the top and re use them. The lower one is fiber and they can't usually be re used. The ones I am using right now are made from leather. I cut them from the leather with two different sized gasket punches. They aren't leaking right now.
Not sure what you mean, But the feed bolt sits/ Touches, On the Head, The big washer goes around it, What Vibac is saying is, The small bit that goes inside the rocker bearing, On the Modified one, Can touch the top of the rocker to soon, Both sides !, Stoping full movement, Mk2 cams move more !.
I had to grind a lot off the top of the rockerWhere they touch. Cheers Bill.
What confused the issue for me was that on the cylinder head I have dismantled there was a thick fibre washer underneath the hex head of the actual rocker feed bolt. That would result in the end of the ricker feed bolt being held off the cylinder head and not going into the rocker bearing as far as it should. It is easy to compare the depth of the combined hole with the distance between the end of the rocker feed bolt and the underside of the hex. I now understand how it is supposed to be put together thanks to the forum simply using one fibre washer surrounding the hex head of the rocker feed bolt and the banjo bearing up against the fibre washer and held in place by the 1/4 inch bolt and copper washer. Quite Heath Robinson really and potentially fraud with problem which have obviously been experienced before.Many thanks
I use the new fiber washers supplied by the VOC spares co under the banjo (much softer than the usual red fiber washers, as these are way too hard) and I use 1/4 ID Dowty seals only directly under the head of the stock 1/4 BSF bolt. Done this on every engine and never had an issue...........On the tapered face of each pipe fitting I wipe a small smear of 518 loctite which is a red flange sealant and put a drop of engine oil on both the thread of the pipe nut and the flange face that it pulls against. This will ensure that the nuts pull up nice and firm without any "Tight spots" as you tighten the nuts, do this after nipping down the top banjo securing bolt, you need to do this or else the pipe fittings will twist. Start from the very front and work towards the rear, that way you can adjust for accurate alignment as you go. Do not over-tighten the top bolts and the pipe nuts need to be nice and firm. If you do all this correctly, you should suffer no oil leaks. Good luck..............Greg.