Not worried about complaints. Feedback, positive or negative, is the only way we can improve anything. It is just that this is so different from what I found on my bike that it would be interesting to know what makes the difference. I had to go several millimetres into the rear and base of the top link. Once it is on the road you can always check the total movement of the spring box with a cable tie fastened around the inner and see how much it is pushed down.
FF: Forks Modified Steering Stem
- Thread starter greg brillus
- Start date
Black Flash has, per post #713.
Because my AVO damper was a few thou longer, between centers, than standard I had to take a good bit more than normal off the link. Perhaps Vibracs AVO is a few thou shorter. Cheers, Stu.
Maybe it's not fully extended as well............Or using the longer eye bolts will make a big difference. I installed one of the AVO dampers to the front (and coilover rear) to a Shadow and had to grind about 3 mm deep into the upper link to get clearance there. As a point of interest, I have done this mod using pretty much every shock absorber available for the front end of a Vincent and used long eye-bolts on every single one, you will loose suspension travel if you use the short ones, and the pre-load on the springs will be much higher than necessary. It is necessary to spend some time setting up the steering head bearings to remove as much play out of them as you can without binding. If there is any play you will notice a clunking from the front end, I think the new geometry makes this play more obvious than a stock set up. Also if you fit a new lower bearing felt seal, they can tend to create quite a bit of drag on the steering.........This has the effect of riding with a stock friction damper wound on too much. If the seal is too compressed, I find it easier to cut the seal in half by slicing it with a very sharp knife with the seal sitting over a piece of wooden dowel like Tim's favorite suspension part, though a bit longer, rotating and cutting as you go. Another reminder to those lost over time..................It is VERY IMPORTANT to check that your empty spring cases are thoroughly clean and free of any binding, as this will impede the free action of the suspension especially if the lower link has had the bearing mod done. The "Liveliness" of the forks will become obvious once some miles are gathered up. I find it best to clean the crud out using a good solvent (petrol works very well) and a good stiff bottle brush used several times to get all the old grease and grit out of the very ends, especially the top of the upper case. For those using new upper spring cases, the top brass insert is slightly different to the originals in that when the springs are installed and the cases slid together, the new ones will show that the overall length from eye to eye is about 10 mm longer, so it may be necessary to shorten the springs to compensate or else the front end will be topped out...........It is common to have to shorten the springs, so do not feel bad if this is the case. My advice is to remove no more than an inch from the right spring, and then fine tune with the left spring. In this way you can use the front axle and cord to winch the spring case for assembly and removal quickly without having to swap the axle around to alter the right spring. Oh and do remember to give the springs a nice coat of grease once you are happy. Happy to answer any other questions if needed..............Cheers for now.............Greg.
I dont see a lot of difference this is an old top and a new one pic1 (without the bush) the new ones can be identified as they have a bell portion on the open end
The reason I have a new one is the braze failed on the old one so I have an opportunity to measure the old depth of the insert pic2
I have not measured the internal length as one leg is cut off at about the 1" for the steering stem mod and the new one isnt (yet).
The reason I have a new one is the braze failed on the old one so I have an opportunity to measure the old depth of the insert pic2
I have not measured the internal length as one leg is cut off at about the 1" for the steering stem mod and the new one isnt (yet).
Carleton Palmer has been riding his Series D Shadow with a modified stem and a Thornton front coil-over since 2015. Here is a shot from the 2015 ralley:
I think the problem that Tim has is that the damper shroud is larger than the body of the damper. Because the Works Performance damper is upside down you would think it would be a problem, but the body diameter of the Works is smaller than the shroud diameter. The spring starts underneath the top link at its lowest point, so it does not foul. As far as I know he is using the short eyes.
Carleton says this bike handles like a modern bike. He is very pleased with it.
David
I think the problem that Tim has is that the damper shroud is larger than the body of the damper. Because the Works Performance damper is upside down you would think it would be a problem, but the body diameter of the Works is smaller than the shroud diameter. The spring starts underneath the top link at its lowest point, so it does not foul. As far as I know he is using the short eyes.
Carleton says this bike handles like a modern bike. He is very pleased with it.
David
I was just pointing out I don't because of imperceptible variations but others may.
David,
Obviously using a coil over negates the need for the front springs and boxes, so the lower link eccentric is clearly visible, but it looks concentric rather than eccentric. Do you know which it is?
Thanks
Steven
That looks like one of the ones which I get made and are copies of the original by John Emmanuel. They are concentrics but that is not the point. The important thing is that the pivot point for the lower link is moved and hence changes the path that the front wheel moves when it is deflected upwards. By replacing the Oilite bushes with ball races, as developed by Greg Brillus in Australia, the movement is much easier.
I do wonder from the photograph whether the top mounting point for the spring/damper unit has been strengthened. I know that Greg put outrigger supports up to his handlebars to secure that point. If it has been shown not to be required then that would be very useful information to have.
I do wonder from the photograph whether the top mounting point for the spring/damper unit has been strengthened. I know that Greg put outrigger supports up to his handlebars to secure that point. If it has been shown not to be required then that would be very useful information to have.
Good info. I hadn't considered the need to move the pivot point nor the need to strengthen the top mounting point.
Thanks
Steven
Thanks
Steven