http://www.ondrives.com/data/pdf/bearings/bushings/oilites-tech.pdf
Read this page,it should explain..John
Read this page,it should explain..John
It would be better to heat the bush, before dropping it in oil, that way the expanded air would leave the bush, and on cooling the oil would be drawn in.In the absence of vacuum equipment, you think boiling the bush in oil would be adequate? I did this many years ago, and at least some of the air/solvent bubbles out, to be replaced by oil as it cools down.
It would be better to heat the bush, before dropping it in oil, that way the expanded air would leave the bush, and on cooling the oil would be drawn in.
Likely best to do it after assy, because the bushes will need to be sized after pressing in.
TBH, I can't see that this is better. Shallow immersion in oil is not going to prevent air escaping. In addition, heating in air, if not done very carefully could cause local overheating, oxidation of the oil and blocked pores.It would be better to heat the bush, before dropping it in oil, that way the expanded air would leave the bush, and on cooling the oil would be drawn in.
Industrial deep fat fryer?I'd like to see you heat it to 100 Centigrade in situ....
Thats interesting. I wonder how it compares to synthetic based greases? Being aware of the forces in the Girdraulic links, I now make sure mine are very well supplied with the best grease I can find. At the moment I am using "Silkolene PRO RG2 Racing Grease". This is because I read a test report years ago that said synthetic oils have 6 times the film strength of ordinary mineral oils.Although I would say, use this grease and have no problems.
http://www.team-zx1.com/Super-Grease
It does not separate out or dry in the worst conditions. I have some in my stock that has been on the shelf for over 20 years, and you can invert the tub, and nothing drips, it still has the swirl on the top from when it was decanted.