ET: Engine (Twin) Exhaust gaskets

Cyborg

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Just in the process of installing the exhaust system on the B twin basket case. The pipes have taken a little "persuasion" to get them lined up. I have new copper exhaust gaskets, but they are on the dainty side. Anyone know of a thicker gasket that is available? I'm thinking thicker gaskets will help seal up any misalignment between the pipe flange and the head. Judging by the way they fit, it's doubtful the the flange is perfectly flat against the head.
 

Robert Watson

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Standard gasket is a sort of composite not unlike the Rocker cover ones but much more dainty...

I have if you want some
 

timetraveller

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The purists wont like this but you can use normal clear silicon mastic, as sold for many domestic purposes. Plenty around the pipe and inside the nut and round its thread and it 'squidges' to fill up any gaps. It also does not set hard so that the nuts can be unscrewed later if needed. I would never have guessed at this 'bodge' had I not seen it being used on racing sidecar outfits in the paddock after cylinder head replacements during races. I tried it at the joint where the front pipe joins into the rear pipe, which must be cooler than at the head, and it lasted for years, If you have the mastic lying around from some domestic job then it is an almost zero cost option. By the way, I specified 'clear' above as I have found that lasts for years in Mediterranean sunny conditions when used for bedding in clear plastic into aluminium hatch frames. The chaps I first saw using this were using some coloured stuff, obviously left over from a domestic job. My experience is that for the use in the Sun any pigment reduces the lifetime to about a year before it looses its elasticity; the clear lasts at least ten years.
 

nkt267

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The purists wont like this but you can use normal clear silicon mastic, as sold for many domestic purposes. Plenty around the pipe and inside the nut and round its thread and it 'squidges' to fill up any gaps. It also does not set hard so that the nuts can be unscrewed later if needed. I would never have guessed at this 'bodge' had I not seen it being used on racing sidecar outfits in the paddock after cylinder head replacements during races. I tried it at the joint where the front pipe joins into the rear pipe, which must be cooler than at the head, and it lasted for years, If you have the mastic lying around from some domestic job then it is an almost zero cost option. By the way, I specified 'clear' above as I have found that lasts for years in Mediterranean sunny conditions when used for bedding in clear plastic into aluminium hatch frames. The chaps I first saw using this were using some coloured stuff, obviously left over from a domestic job. My experience is that for the use in the Sun any pigment reduces the lifetime to about a year before it looses its elasticity; the clear lasts at least ten years.

Works for me too..john
 

Albervin

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The purists wont like this but you can use normal clear silicon mastic, as sold for many domestic purposes. Plenty around the pipe and inside the nut and round its thread and it 'squidges' to fill up any gaps. It also does not set hard so that the nuts can be unscrewed later if needed. I would never have guessed at this 'bodge' had I not seen it being used on racing sidecar outfits in the paddock after cylinder head replacements during races. I tried it at the joint where the front pipe joins into the rear pipe, which must be cooler than at the head, and it lasted for years, If you have the mastic lying around from some domestic job then it is an almost zero cost option. By the way, I specified 'clear' above as I have found that lasts for years in Mediterranean sunny conditions when used for bedding in clear plastic into aluminium hatch frames. The chaps I first saw using this were using some coloured stuff, obviously left over from a domestic job. My experience is that for the use in the Sun any pigment reduces the lifetime to about a year before it looses its elasticity; the clear lasts at least ten years.
When I bought my Trans Australian Rapide the exhaust was attached using silicone. I asked the vendor why (he was a friend) and he said that was all he had on the Nullabor when the nuts popped off. There were only 3-4 threads holding them on but they lasted several thousand miles without leaking. New exhaust nuts fixed it thank goodness as I was prepared for a major head port job. He also had it around the pushrod tubes and way too many other places; ugly as .. but effective. That was Bill!
 

Cyborg

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Standard gasket is a sort of composite not unlike the Rocker cover ones but much more dainty...

I have if you want some

Thanks, I'll take you up on that. I don't recall where I got these ones, but they don't appear to composite, just really thin copper rings. The heads and nuts are in great shape, it's just the pipes that are a questionable fit.
 

vibrac

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I don't think the copper ones are supplied directly any more, just composite ones (or Two!) - don't forget pipes are individual beasts its not a difficult job heat up the end, tap back the pipe flange and file the excess flange off to make a more parallel fit I have turned a two piece alloy blank with a hole in it to make my flanges but for a quick aligning job a piece of wood split with a pipe sized hole in in should be OK
 

Cyborg

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I don't think the copper ones are supplied directly any more, just composite ones (or Two!) - don't forget pipes are individual beasts its not a difficult job heat up the end, tap back the pipe flange and file the excess flange off to make a more parallel fit I have turned a two piece alloy blank with a hole in it to make my flanges but for a quick aligning job a piece of wood split with a pipe sized hole in in should be OK

What method do you use to establish how the flange fits against the head? Normally I would use something like putty to check the gap, but haven't tried it. I'm thinking that by the time I get the pipe aligned and snugged down, the putty will be so smushed I won't get a good reading. Guess I should just give it a try. Or maybe attach ( with gasket cement) the gaskets that I have onto the pipe flange or head and tighten them up... then pray the gaskets don't move when I remove the pipes.
 
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