FT: Frame (Twin) Dismantling and Refitting the UFM

brian gains

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first job I did was remove UFM, make sure the motor is well supportd and all cables, electrics are disconnected ; if I can do it any monkey can.
I've have used powder coating extensively on other machines mainly due to easy access of local conscientious coating outfit. However in future I would paint frames preferably. Powder coating has its place but personally I would only use for brackets / small components.
look on utube for several ingenious ideas for fabrication of vibrating platforms and rotatating jigs both used in conjunction with whatever shrapnel is available to aid ablative process.
 

mercurycrest

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I must admit, the OVR is the absolute paragon in choice of it's cover subjects. Screen Shot 2019-12-19 at 22.04.06.png
 

oexing

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Never easily satisfied on my findings and after a lot of pondering about fixing the oil tank to the head lug I recently decided on having ALL holes, both sides, countersunk for 90 degree cone nuts on plain bolts from stainless. My collection of unmatched Argentinian bits lead me to machine all places on the tank for concentricity by fabricating a piloted 90 degree countersink running on a long hardened 8 mm pilot sitting in the head lug. So I believe this will produce a very solid unit, with bolts glued in the head lug with LOW strength Loctite 221 or 222 . That way you get no rust problem in there and no fretting. The cone nuts will have same Loctite and some MoS2 paste on the cone when assembling the lot.

Vic

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Cyborg

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Oexing, I wish I could hang out in your shop for a day. If I lived closer, I’d volunteer to be your shop lackey.
 

vibrac

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One thing to bear in mind this re bolting is OK with originally matching parts but not necessarily with second hand head stocks and oil tanks as they were either not originally accurately jig drilled or the jig was slightly changed during its life,for that reason I believe new oil tanks are supplied with only one cross hole already drilled I have never personally witnessed this information so perhaps someone could confirm.
 

greg brillus

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Vic just a point of interest, those nuts you have on those studs, the height of the nuts are too long........You will find this will make installing/removing the fuel tank difficult. It is one of the reasons for the nuts being countersunk to make use of the longer thread.
 

oexing

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Hi Greg,
I had a look at this and it seemed to be no problem with my tanks. But I´ll look again tonight, no problem to shorten a bit if necessary. I was thinking the more important idea for the countersunk nuts was the locating job oil tank / head lug. That was why I did all holes countersunk -- for my peace of mind.
Cyborg, my "shop" is a small room in second floor under the roof above my living room. So it was quite a job to schlepp the 500 kg lathe disassembled up there for decent heated working conditions. Vincent Speet and Erik can tell I have sort of chaos in there but I am alone there and can still deal with it. The mill and the big lathe live in the shed in the yard of course but these are not so much used if I can help it. Well, toolmakers are terrific . . . . . or a bit weird . . .

Vic

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