FT: Frame (Twin) Dismantling and Refitting the UFM

[ClassicBiker]

I've powder coated two frames. But in hind sight I wouldn't do it again. I hadn't considered the points brought up here, The two reasons I wouldn't powder coat again is very simple. At some point, if you use the bike even a little, road debris of some sort will chip that nice shiny powder coat or doing maintenance you will. The thickness of the powder coat will be readily apparent where you touch it up with paint. If you powder coat, as I did, a frame that has cast or forged lugs unless you polish all those lugs smooth there will be thousands of little stars in that dark as night midnight black powder coat. These little stars will eventually be the first to develop rust as the powder coat is very thin here, if it is there at all. Once rust starts it will get under the powder coat and pieces of the powder coat will begin to flake off. So now my choice is to paint frames. It is far easier to touch up.
Powder coating sheet metal and fork sliders I can see, but not frames and brackets. I've powder coated fork seal holders and handle bars silver. It's much cheaper than chroming and makes them appear like anodized aluminum or hard chromed steel.
Steven

 

[Gerry Clarke]

You cannot just undo the nuts, you have to grind the peened ends off the bolts/studs first. However, it is not difficult to remove the oil tank in most cases. I say most cases, because if you have a lot of corrosion in the tunnels you will find it very difficult to drift out the bolts/studs.

Not sure if the link below will work.

Gerry

F: Frame - Removing C Comet oil tank

Oil tank developed leak at outlet, so had to be removed for brazing. Also had Conway's fit access port and clean the tank. Just posting this as I don't see much about removing the oil tank for jobs like this without detaching the whole front end. With a steady hand, it is quite easy to take...

www.vincentownersclub.co.uk

 

[Vincent Brake]

Forgot to ask, on assembly do the nuts and bolts a once only application and need to be replaced or can they be re-used

Better use M8 steel 8.8 bolts.
High nuts and both turned to 45 degrees.
I used full blank bolts only thread outside of tank.

 

[greg brillus]

Clean the bolts on a wire wheel and then spray them with engine enamel from a spray can, same as the cylinder hold down studs, these should be done so they don't readily rust. Rather than peen the bolt ends over, just use a good strength loctite. The heads of the nuts are shallow and need to be or else it will make installing/removing the fuel tank that bit more difficult.

 

[Albervin]

I thought about removing the headstock on my C Shadow because the bearing faces needed machining back to round. In the end a clever machinist did it in situ. Removing the bolts should be your last option. I think you would have to grind the heads off as they have been peened, covered in paint and oil and are also (probably) lightly rusted. Read the article in this month's MPH on powder coating. There is a good reason racing car and bike chassis are not allowed to be powder coated. The road to thoroughly cleaning the oil tank can be arduous and messy and often pointless.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

I thought about removing the headstock on my C Shadow because the bearing faces needed machining back to round. In the end a clever machinist did it in situ. Removing the bolts should be your last option. I think you would have to grind the heads off as they have been peened, covered in paint and oil and are also (probably) lightly rusted. Read the article in this month's MPH on powder coating. There is a good reason racing car and bike chassis are not allowed to be powder coated. The road to thoroughly cleaning the oil tank can be arduous and messy and often pointless.

Also see the Letter to the Editor, from Gibraltar, in this months OVR about powder coating - Ouch!

 

[Rob H]

Also see the Letter to the Editor, from Gibraltar, in this months OVR about powder coating - Ouch!

OVR?

 

[Little Honda]

Clean the bolts on a wire wheel and then spray them with engine enamel from a spray can, same as the cylinder hold down studs, these should be done so they don't readily rust. Rather than peen the bolt ends over, just use a good strength loctite. The heads of the nuts are shallow and need to be or else it will make installing/removing the fuel tank that bit more difficult.

What about sea-water-proof grease as rust-repellant?

 

[bmetcalf]

OVR?

I'll beat Martyn to it: https://ovr270.wixsite.com/ozvincentreview

 

[vibrac]

OVR?

There it is! proof advertising here does not work