E: Engine Comet Mongrel

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Perhaps this is a dumb question, but given the fact that this is my first Comet project.... what is this hole for?

If you are having trouble with those parts lists (what you are looking for is in MO64)

Then perhaps the alternative parts list would help you Its a lot of money but for someone not familiar with the Comet its a lot better
its on the club regalia (clubshop) hosted on the Vincent Spares Website www.vincentspares.co.uk
 

Attachments

  • 1512131663298.png
    1512131663298.png
    17.6 KB · Views: 26
Last edited by a moderator:

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Keep in mind that on some of the spindles - large idler for example - there is a thrust washer that does NOT slide over the spindle shoulder - it goes between the steady plate and the spindle shoulder. Trap for new players.

Is that not written somewhere? How the difference in thickness between ET98/1 and ET173 factor into setting spindle depth..... or is that sort of like a right of passage.... Do I get to partake in some sort of ceremony with bedsheets and torches?
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If you are having trouble with those parts lists (what you are looking for is in MO64)

Then perhaps the alternative parts list would help you Its a lot of money but for someone not familiar with the Comet its a lot better
its on the club regalia (clubshop) hosted on the Vincent Spares Website www.vincentspares.co.uk

That would be a wise move, but if you recall.... I am so cheap, you couldn't convince me to buy a PD7 nut.
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Perhaps this is a dumb question, but given the fact that this is my first Comet project.... what is this hole for?

If you look at the photo in post 35, which is the flat plate, that hole is not necessary. I think all the holes in that photo are marked or obvious and the three holes I use to hold the primary cover on are marked "A,B&C."

If you are using a 36T engine sprocket then the distance between crank and clutch shafts is 8.1." Originally, I thought I would change the CS sprocket by pulling the clutch off, but I used sprockets that were so large I did not want to drill a hole bigger than the one in the photo. In fact, I thought a smaller one was better, so I decided that on the next plate I would drill a smaller hole and it was not much harder to remove the box from the timing side when I got down to it. A stock sized hole, is fine.

You could also think a bit about the transmission adjustment.

David
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If you talk to Bob Newby he is expecting you to have adjustment on a belt drive I must admit on the Comet Racer I do not have any perhaps because I changed the belt every season I just make sure the 90 degree test works and thats all. But Bob did say that belt lengths vary in manufacture however I have not had a problem- yet
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If you look at the photo in post 35, which is the flat plate, that hole is not necessary. I think all the holes in that photo are marked or obvious and the three holes I use to hold the primary cover on are marked "A,B&C."

If you are using a 36T engine sprocket then the distance between crank and clutch shafts is 8.1." Originally, I thought I would change the CS sprocket by pulling the clutch off, but I used sprockets that were so large I did not want to drill a hole bigger than the one in the photo. In fact, I thought a smaller one was better, so I decided that on the next plate I would drill a smaller hole and it was not much harder to remove the box from the timing side when I got down to it. A stock sized hole, is fine.

You could also think a bit about the transmission adjustment.

David

Thinking that I will set the engine plate up in the mill using the bottom gearbox mount hole as a pivot point and machine the top adjusting slot in an arc. I've had this mill for about 2 years now and it's time to start learning how to use it. It was an interesting exercise figuring out how to map the holes for the inner primary. (Make me wish I didn't waste half my life running around in a monkey suit analyzing financial statements) I'm assuming I can use the stock Commando adjuster and crosshead (NM16997 and 060595)
I also need to think about what frame I am going to use, so I can actually start carving out plates.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If you talk to Bob Newby he is expecting you to have adjustment on a belt drive I must admit on the Comet Racer I do not have any perhaps because I changed the belt every season I just make sure the 90 degree test works and thats all. But Bob did say that belt lengths vary in manufacture however I have not had a problem- yet

What's a 90 degree test? Usually tests make me break out in hives.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
midway between the pullys you should be able to twist the belt to 90 degrees from its normal position
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks, I don't imagine that clutch bearing (along with other things) likes too much tension.

How do you like my new avatar? Didn't someone on here say that the motorcycles were just a front for the shim factory?
 
Top