F: Frame Replacing RFM Fork lug FT9L or FT9R
- Thread starter Cyborg
- Start date
Yes, I've had new lugs fitted to a locally built frame. Pinned and brazed construction. Checking dimensions are in "Richardson", page 36 first edition.
Thanks for the reply. Do you know if they were originally pinned at the factory or was that for extra insurance?
I assume when you say brazed, they are sweated on.… similar process to plumbing joints, but a little more critical. Heat the lug and the brazing rod flows into the joint towards the heat?
I assume when you say brazed, they are sweated on.… similar process to plumbing joints, but a little more critical. Heat the lug and the brazing rod flows into the joint towards the heat?
NOT originally pinned. Blacksmiths forge is perfect for even heating to aid removal. When refitting make up a dummy axle and lock that between the lugs prior to re brazing to ensure the faces of the lugs are parallel and true
I mentioned Scott Dell's RFM above.
Here is a shot of his RFM before brazing:
David
Always wanted a forge, but at this point, I’d probably get more use out of a tandoori oven.
I don’t have my hands on the RFM yet, but this one will require a jig. The lower tubes need replacing as well. My welding table has half of the surface covered with 1/2” steel plate, so it will do for a base. For removing and replacing bits, I have an Oxy propane setup that can generate a lot of heat. It’s not cranked up in the photo….at full throttle it makes a bit of noise and best used outside. You can really crank it up and unlike oxy acetylene, no worry about belching out acetone.
As mentioned, I don’t have it in my possession yet and when I see it, I may take the advice of a wise fellow member and just buy a new one. It’s kind of like a stray dog though…. hard to just pass it by.
I don’t have my hands on the RFM yet, but this one will require a jig. The lower tubes need replacing as well. My welding table has half of the surface covered with 1/2” steel plate, so it will do for a base. For removing and replacing bits, I have an Oxy propane setup that can generate a lot of heat. It’s not cranked up in the photo….at full throttle it makes a bit of noise and best used outside. You can really crank it up and unlike oxy acetylene, no worry about belching out acetone.
As mentioned, I don’t have it in my possession yet and when I see it, I may take the advice of a wise fellow member and just buy a new one. It’s kind of like a stray dog though…. hard to just pass it by.
Thanks.. some sort of Rube Goldberg forge would probably make things easier. I wouldn’t have thought I would need any more that the rosebud if doing just a lug. It blows metal away, but I can now see that getting tubes sweated into the lump at the other end would be a different story.
I was thinking of removing the tubes from the pivot by using the mill. Not sure if that makes sense. I’ve done more stick and MIG than I care to remember and can now run 3’ of bead around an alloy oil tank without blowing any holes in it (although still learning), but never removed or sweated any lugs on.
I was thinking of removing the tubes from the pivot by using the mill. Not sure if that makes sense. I’ve done more stick and MIG than I care to remember and can now run 3’ of bead around an alloy oil tank without blowing any holes in it (although still learning), but never removed or sweated any lugs on.