E: Engine Liner/muff clearance

[Cyborg]

They look interesting. I haven't measured them, but they appear to be new. No cross hatch or scuffing inside under the copper. Don't currently have a plan to use them, but would most likely remove the copper first. Never read or heard mention of such a thing for cylinder liners.

 

[passenger0_0]

Maybe an easy way to increase the interference fit to an oversize muff? Why wouldn't it work?

 

[Cyborg]

I'm sure that is why they are plated and yes I believe it would work. If I end up using them at some point, it will be in new muffs, because I don't have any decent used ones. With new muffs, I would remove all of the plating because it shouldn't be required and it is starting to lift in some spots.

 

[timetraveller]

This is a decades old dodge for getting the liner to muff clearance of minus six thou correct. I have never seen it done but have known about it ever since I started learning about Vincents.

 

[Vincent Brake]

This is a decades old dodge for getting the liner to muff clearance of minus six thou correct. I have never seen it done but have known about it ever since I started learning about Vincents.

to continu it Norm;
in A wild dream, i did fit with -/-0,2 mm, then hone hot say 80 degree between presure plates, I woke up with a conical bore

 

[bmetcalf]

Justin Mackay-Smith has a thick Ali muff that he clamps around the liner when honing to dissipate the heat and prevent conical bores.

 

[Cyborg]

I just removed a liner from a muff. I put it in the oven at 395F or so for 1/2 hr. Waited for the thud, but it never happened. Took it out of the oven and whacked it on the wood bench. Still no go. Had to put it in the press to get it out. Didn't take a whole bunch of pressure, but it was definitely a snug fit. The muff is missing fins, so its going to be shaved down to use in the lathe for holding a cylinder assembly for boring. At least that's the plan at this point. Regarding your comment Bruce... I'll take thin cuts with the boring bar and take my time with the hone. The cylinder that I am boring if for the Comet and it is a very snug fit in the cases, so when finished, I'll have to remember to warm the engine up before I thrash it. I should install the cylinder and remeasure the bore to see what if any difference the snug cases make. (it seems like the upper case studs will need to be backed off to get the cylinder home, so the liner may get distorted)

 

[bmetcalf]

IIRC, ClevTrev has some thoughts on liner to crankcase clearance, but I forget what they are. Maybe he'll post it again, unless this has it: https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/removing-barrells.3979/#post-26583

 

[Cyborg]

IIRC, ClevTrev has some thoughts on liner to crankcase clearance, but I forget what they are. Maybe he'll post it again, unless this has it: https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/removing-barrells.3979/#post-26583

In that thread, the part about the different sized circlips is interesting. I was just sorting through some and noticed two sizes, one of which doesn't look all that safe to use. As for the barrel, I suppose if it shows any distortion when I remeasure it after its installed in the cases, I could remove a bit of material from the liner. The cases are assembled and I don't want to remove any material from the them anyway. The other thing is..... if the barrel does distort, maybe the whole frigging thing should be thrown into the oven and measured again. Some or perhaps all of that distortion will go away once the engine (cases) get up to operating temperature.... hence my comment about warming it up before thrashing it (assuming I ever get to that point).... or maybe I'm just overthinking it.

 

[Cyborg]

to continu it Norm;
in A wild dream, i did fit with -/-0,2 mm, then hone hot say 80 degree between presure plates, I woke up with a conical bore

Do you bore cylinders on a lathe or mill? If so, do you use a torque plate (is that what you mean by pressure plate)? I wouldn't have thought a torque plate would be necessary as the cylinder studs are threaded into the crankcase and not the cylinder, so much less distortion Y/N?