FF: Forks Comprehensive Steering stem, with new lay out

timetraveller

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I am not convinced that the geometry is of secondary importance. I have no argument with springs and shockers being of importance but! Below is the path that the front wheel spindle moves through as the suspension rises and falls.. The whole point of this is that when braking hard the front end does not rise up and prevent the suspension working.
These two curves were taken by putting a long rear wheel tommy bar axel into the front forks and then moving the forks up and down. In both case the spring boxes were empty, an empty modern AVO damper (no oil) was used in conjunction with the longer eyebolts, F57/2SS, at the base of the damper. These eyebolts were used on the series D machines and they were used with the Armstrong dampers, which are shorter than the original Vincent dampers. It is the combined length of the damper and eyebolts which controls the range over which the front forks can move.

1698667622079.png

The measurements are all in inches and it is the shape of the curves which is important. The exact value of the position along the horizontal axis is not guaranteed to be identical for both curves. Look first at the Standard curve and you will see that for the first 2.5inches/62mm of vertical movement the wheel has to move forwards by 0.5 inches/12mm. When one is braking the wheel is reluctant to do this and all experienced Vincent riders will have experienced the bike trying to ride up over the front wheel when braking. When braking hard the bike rises up over the front wheel, the wheel moves backwards to give increase trail which reduced the ability of the bike to turn into a corner and until the brake is released this situation cannot be recovered. This can cause a speed wobble wherein the front forks oscillate so violently from side to side that one cannot hold onto the handlebars and this often results in a crash. Note that with the standard front forks it is only after the first 62mm of vertical movement that the wheel can start to move backwards. It is interesting to look at photographs of the works racing machines in the early 1950s. They all have low front suspension which means that the first 62mm of movement has already been taken and the bike is operating in the top part of the standard curve 50 mm of vertical movement and about 8mm of backwards movement.

Compare the curve of the standard front suspension with that of the 'modified' one.

It would be good to see the same information for Vincent's design.
I did not consider it worth while designing the system around using eccentrics, That was a very ingenious design by the two Phils and served the needs of family men in the 1940s and 50s. If anyone wanted to fit a sidecar to a bike with a JE stem then I would recommend a short top link. The reduction in friction when one changes from Oilite bushes to ball or needle roller bearings is remarkable.
 

davidd

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There is a reason why taper roller conversions on Vincents are not common. The original conversions, which were done by grinding new bearings to fit the Vincent dimensions, appeared to work well, but it was difficult to fit the upper taper roller to the steering stem. The loose ball design using cups and cones does not require the steering stem to be round over its entire length. Often Vincent steering stems are only round at the top and bottom where they are machined to fit other parts. I have worked on steering stems that had multiple flats in between the top and the bottom. This is fine because the loose ball bearing does not need to touch the stem at the top position. The FF1 at the top and the steering head hold the cup bearing race and the steering head holds the cone race.

On the Vincent taper roller conversion, the steering stem holds the taper roller inner bearing in place. This is fine if the stem is round, but most are not machined round at this position. So, the directions to install the taper roller cone required that the taper roller be installed with Loctite. The Loctite was applied and the front end was assembled to hold the taper roller in place on the steering stem until the Loctite was cured. The object was to center the taper roller on the unmachined stem so the Loctite would hold it in the correct concentric position.

This is not an issue with the lower bearing where the steering stem is machined to hold either the loose ball cone or the taper bearing. The lower bearing takes the majority of the pounding, but installing a taper roller bearing in the top position is somewhat difficult because the stock Vincent stem is an odd shape at this position. Using a new stem, that is machined for the taper roller bearing, gets you halfway closer to a good fit. The other half is finding taper roller bearings that fit the stock steering head.

The GP racers prefer loose ball bearings because they found that sometimes the taper roller bearings were inclined to what the riders called "wedging." This happens when the taper roller inner is jammed down into the cup and the bearing momentarily binds. A loose ball bearing will not do this.

I suspect that wedging is not a problem for almost all vintage bikes because they do not produce the same forces as modern GP bikes. As far as I know, there have not been any problems with the early Vincent taper roller conversions.

David
 

Phil Hogg

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Vincent, I see you have been busy again following our discussions at the FFN this summer, yours stem looks remarkably similar to mine excepting of course I went
Mod steering stem.jpg
Mod steering stem and fully sprung headlamp.jpg
with the standard eccentric arrangement but like you followed David's lead re geometry. Mine has now covered 5000 miles over this summer and like you I have found it steer's beautifully.

Regards Philip.
 

Vincent Brake

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Impressive bit of machine work there.......however, the dive /rebound rates are controlled by the springs and shocker not so much the change in geometry.......the link eye bearing arrangement looks good if not a little complex.
Lets see what the geometry does....
 

greg brillus

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Just as a side note to the modified front ends.......When we raced the Godet Grey Flash at Goodwood this September just gone, we found an issue with the font end that I had not encountered before.......perhaps because Adam Mclean was such a good rider, that he pushed the bike hard enough to start a wobble from the bars.......We checked the bike over and what I found was the top clip FF1 was twisting back and fourth on the light weight alloy column tube......the cross pinch bolt and collets had come loose a little........After I re tightened this, on the first race on Saturday, Adam said that the front end was perfect for about 6 laps........and thereafter the condition started to come back........i never got the chance to adjust it again as late in the same race Dave came off the bike after the front brake locked up.......Now this is very unlikely to happen with the steel tube versions which most all are.......but some are of alloy and I could see a potential issue there........The bike is due back home here in mid November, and then I will investigate the whole thing in more detail........I'm sure there is an easy fix, but an interesting find that had me baffled initially.
 

Vincent Brake

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Indeed Greg, I saw it on the original tubes, the indentions, and made the tube from stronger steel and 5 mm wall thickness. Hopefully it will be fixed good now. Furthermore, we use a light interference fit for the top. So it prevents this back-and-forth motion.

The Devil Is In The Detail.
 
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davidd

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I do not know the specifications of the Godet stem I know Patrick used my design, but he built it also. I also have no idea about the bearings he chose, the specs for the headstock, or the lock wiring he used on any nuts, including the stem nut.

David Tompkins has run my aluminum stem for four years and has had zero issues. David may not be near IOM riding status at present, but he has four national championships using the Vincent so his lap times have lowered quite a bit in the past few years, which means he is putting forces into the chassis that are much higher than the average rider would generate. The stem is a solid aluminum rod, not a tube. It does have a 5/16" hole for the damper rod, but such a hole does not reduce the strength.

David
 

greg brillus

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looking at the locking mechanism, It looks a bit feeble to say the least.......A split section of the FF1 with a clamping bolt would be better........i will investigate it once i have the bike back here. Remembering the average speed at Goodwood is 95 odd MPH and there are parts of the track that are quiet rough.......it was through a section that has a left then right bend that showed the issue........well not as bad as that retched front brake.......
 
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