ET: Engine (Twin) Timing Chest Gear Meshing Adjustment

[minivin]

Evening all,

I don't know whether this is an accepted means of adjustment, or frowned upon, but for the past few builds I've always used Rizla "Green" papers between the gears, to then get the gear meshed hard and then tighten the large idlers mounting. Does anyone have any comments on whether this is a bad method? All previous attempts I have done by "fell" have either resulted in excessive rattling or "ringing" (I gotta say, it's impressive when you first hear that sound.....), while using this method has tended to result in a quiet timing area.



Regards

Rob Vincent

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Evening all,

I don't know whether this is an accepted means of adjustment, or frowned upon, but for the past few builds I've always used Rizla "Green" papers between the gears, to then get the gear meshed hard and then tighten the large idlers mounting. Does anyone have any comments on whether this is a bad method? All previous attempts I have done by "fell" have either resulted in excessive rattling or "ringing" (I gotta say, it's impressive when you first hear that sound.....), while using this method has tended to result in a quiet timing area.

View attachment 22005

Regards

Rob Vincent

I assume you are referring to the same cigarette papers used to check when the ignition points open?

 

[minivin]

I assume you are referring to the same cigarette papers used to check when the ignition points open?

Indeed Martyn, I used to have a pack in the tool tray when I used to have a DKX1A on the Comet.

Regards

Rob

 

[John Cone]

Evening all,

I don't know whether this is an accepted means of adjustment, or frowned upon, but for the past few builds I've always used Rizla "Green" papers between the gears, to then get the gear meshed hard and then tighten the large idlers mounting. Does anyone have any comments on whether this is a bad method? All previous attempts I have done by "fell" have either resulted in excessive rattling or "ringing" (I gotta say, it's impressive when you first hear that sound.....), while using this method has tended to result in a quiet timing area.

View attachment 22005

Regards

Rob Vincent

I have got my timing side stripped at the moment, could you tell me whether the 1/4 washers that are on the steady plate spindles go in the inside against the steady plate or on the outside under the nuts? Some of mine have got them on the inside and outside. thanks John

 

[chankly bore]

The 1/4" i.d. washers were originally G107 locktabs going outside under the nuts.Everything else is either directly inboard or up against the timing side crankcase inner wall. I've always used thin Aerotight 1/4" BSF nuts and plain washers and have suffered no ill effects. Read "Know thy Beast" before you shim everything as there are mistakes in "Richardson".The large idler boss provides the datum and it is good practice to get the followers tracking central on the cam lobes and aim for about .005" maximum end float on the spindles. Your ET164 spacers should be about .447-.449" in height.Ask more questions if you are not sure; it is worth getting this area tickety-boo. Cheers.

 

[bmetcalf]

The large idler boss provides the datum.

I would rather say that the fixed camwheels are the datum and you move the large idler boss to suit them, then select the right halftime pinion to fill the gap.

 

[Bill Thomas]

The 1/4" i.d. washers were originally G107 locktabs going outside under the nuts.Everything else is either directly inboard or up against the timing side crankcase inner wall. I've always used thin Aerotight 1/4" BSF nuts and plain washers and have suffered no ill effects. Read "Know thy Beast" before you shim everything as there are mistakes in "Richardson".The large idler boss provides the datum and it is good practice to get the followers tracking central on the cam lobes and aim for about .005" maximum end float on the spindles. Your ET164 spacers should be about .447-.449" in height.Ask more questions if you are not sure; it is worth getting this area tickety-boo. Cheers.

I think you should have a bit more play on the breather spindle, There has been some locking up of the breather to the spindle. Cheers Bill.

 

[John Cone]

Chankly / Bill, I took my timing side cover off to alter the distributor pinion position as it was one tooth out. What i found was a nut and tab washer laying in the bottom of the timing chest. On further examination i found that the idler gear/ breather had seized to the spindle and caused the nut and tab washer to break off. Hence for how long i don''t know the spindle has been spinning in the crankcase and the steady plate. It's been over 26yrs and 20,000 miles since it was last looked at and whether at the time i hadn't noticed that the flat on the spindle wasn't at the 12' O'clock position that allows oil to in to lubricate the spindle. Now looking at things again and after reading the bibles i have 2 thrust washers, 1 big and 1 small on each of the cam spindles, 1 thin thrust washer on the inside of the idler gear and a thicker washer on the outside, this is i presume is correct. I have a new idler/ breather spindle ET159/1 on its way and a new bush for the gear, now as i see it that gear only had a thin thrust washer on the inside/crankcase side of the gear, should it have 1 on the outside similar to the cam spindles up against the steady plate.?

 

[Bill Thomas]

Sorry John, As soon as I had posted I remembered you had this trouble.
The 2 cam spindle washers go under the steady plate the end nearest to you, Nothing next to the Crankcase.
I think the breather should have a E95 inside next to the crankcase, And just a small ET98/1 between the steady plate and the breather.
I have found the spacers from the Club Shop ET162 are not the same size as the old spares.
So as Davidd has said, Fit what ever washers you need to square everything up.
Good Luck, Bill.

 

[John Cone]

Thanks Bill, i think that the ET98/1 was omitted because you can see where the idler gear on my "D" had been rubbing against the steady plate.