T: Fuel Tank Stale Fuel

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Graham Smith

Guest
My Series ‘B’ Meteor has been off the road for five years, and I’ve only just round to fixing it.

The half tank of fuel is probably really stale, but I’m curious to know, what effect would it have on the bike’s running as I've managed to get it started without replacing said fuel.
 

Peter Holmes

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Well I can’t answer your question Graham, but as a matter of course I use all stale fuel in my lawnmower ( Briggs and Stratton engine) that thing always starts first pull, never lets me down. But for you the real danger is stale fuel left in the carburettor and float bowl, that is where the problem lies, in blocked airways and drilling’s, I would at least start off with fresh fuel, you might just get lucky.
 
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Graham Smith

Guest
The reason I ask is because we've had the magneto rebuilt, and we've timed it up etc, but it's running like a bag of nails, and I'm unsure if it's related to the fuel or magneto.

Regardless, I'm going to replace the fuel and ultrasonically clean the carburettor. At least that'll narrow the problem down.
 

Robert Watson

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VOC Member
Unless it's non ethanol, which over rhere it might be from 5 years ago? I would be highly suspicious. We had a bike sit for several years with no ethanol 94 octane (US Calc) and the owner thought it would be OK. After a complete dismantle and clean of a pair of almost new Mikuni carbs, little black bits stopped appearing in the float bowl and life returned to normal, well as much as it can!
 

Speedtwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I would recommend dumping the fuel.
Condemn it to cutting the grass as Peter mentioned.

When tuning I ensure the fuel is clean the fuel system is clean and the juice is fresh super unleaded or my special avgas mix, the ignition is timed correctly carbs are clean set to baseline settings 1 and a quarter out on the air screw, slide height at a sixteenth and nice fresh plugs as my start point.
Then off you go easy to start warm up and tune away.
Quality of fuel and fuel water,ethanol content all have an affect on running.

Most who used E10 in Scotland recently will vouch for this.
Al
 

ClassicBiker

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VOC Member
I think Peter and Al's advice is best. Consign the old gas to the mower or some other device that doesn't care too much. If you're going to let fuel stand for any length of time it's best to mix in a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil or Sea Foam. Mix in the max amount for the volume of fuel you're storing. I find this helps a great deal. I do this when ever I fill a gas can.
Steven
 

Jim Bush

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VOC Member
Utrasonic cleaning only does half a job - the orifaces need to be physically probed with appropriately sized wires (my usual 0.016" inner core of a wire wound guitar string) to remove the scale that builds up like plaque. If it is a 276 type, the jet block needs to come out.
 

Magnetoman

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VOC Member
It's not that old fuel loses the chemical energy needed to power an engine, but the problem for motorcycle use still is twofold (at least). First, the most volatile compounds evaporate fairly quickly, which makes starting more difficult. Second, especially with ethanol blends, a membrane forms inside the pilot jet as the fuel evaporates, which makes starting nearly impossible.

I've probably written about this before somewhere on this site so I won't repeat all that information. Briefly, though, in an open container the size of a carburetor bowl, fully half the gasoline will evaporate in three days. However, to better simulate the actual situation, 18 years ago I started what is perhaps the world's longest-running motorcycle experiment. The initial part of that experiment was to test the efficacy of fuel stabilizers, and the long-term part is to measure what effect, if any, ethanol has on the metal used for carburetor bodies and jets.

Making a long story short, I estimated the open areas in a carburetor through which fuel vapor can escape to be approximately equivalent in area to that of a 5/32" hole. I drilled such holes in the lids of several containers, placed pre-weighed foil cups in those containers holding several types of gasoline with and without ethanol and with and without the maximum recommended dose of stabilizer, and measured the weight loss due to evaporation as a function of time. After 676 days (1.9 years) there was still a small amount of viscous liquid left in all the containers. The important point is that throughout the experiment the stabilizer had no effect on the evaporation rate for any of the fuel blends, i.e. at every point in time the weight loss in all the containers was the same. The volatiles left as quickly in the initial days, and the volume of viscous liquid remaining nearly two years later was the same, whether or not the gasoline had been "stabilized."

Obviously, nothing will evaporate from a sealed container, but since I don't keep containers of gasoline around, I've not done any experiments that apply to them. I realize there are other opinions but, as a result of data from the motorcycle-relevant experiments that are only briefly described above, I don't spend money on fuel stabilizers. If I don't plan to ride a particular motorcycle again for more than a week, I take the time to drain the float bowl. Although I haven't measured the evaporation rate from the small hole in a fuel tank cap, if I won't ride it again for at least a month, I also drain the tank.
 
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