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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Increasing clutch lift for multiplate clutches
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<blockquote data-quote="Nigel Spaxman" data-source="post: 112277" data-attributes="member: 2907"><p>I have run a V2 clutch for about 12,000 miles now. I use some plates from Barnett that are Kevlar, they are meant to run wet. I run mine in oil the inside is removed from my primary cover so the oil in the chain case is all over the clutch. This clutch doesn't drag or slip. When the engagement gets a bit grabby it is a sign that the oil level in the chain case is getting low. I run the oil level so the chain is just covered when I look in the filler hole. I use oil suitable for wet clutches, usually just motorcycle 10w 40 oil that is for modern bikes. Sometimes I have used ATF. Sometimes I have bought special oil for motorcycle primarys. To stop the clutch from dragging I did need a bit more lift than the original mechanism provided. I use a lever with 1 1/8" between the pivot center and the cable hole. I also installed a different clutch adjuster bolt in the gearbox outer cover. This bolt instead of a ball on the end is flat. It had to be installed from inside the cover. That moves the pivot point out a little bit. With these two changes I have just enough lift so the box goes into neutral easily and shifts really well. I run four clutch springs. The clutch has 6 springs but I found that with the 6 original springs the action was heavy and with three springs the clutch slipped. I did all these mods during the first few weeks of riding the bike and have left it alone since. The clutch can be lifted easily with two fingers and even with one if you try hard.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nigel Spaxman, post: 112277, member: 2907"] I have run a V2 clutch for about 12,000 miles now. I use some plates from Barnett that are Kevlar, they are meant to run wet. I run mine in oil the inside is removed from my primary cover so the oil in the chain case is all over the clutch. This clutch doesn't drag or slip. When the engagement gets a bit grabby it is a sign that the oil level in the chain case is getting low. I run the oil level so the chain is just covered when I look in the filler hole. I use oil suitable for wet clutches, usually just motorcycle 10w 40 oil that is for modern bikes. Sometimes I have used ATF. Sometimes I have bought special oil for motorcycle primarys. To stop the clutch from dragging I did need a bit more lift than the original mechanism provided. I use a lever with 1 1/8" between the pivot center and the cable hole. I also installed a different clutch adjuster bolt in the gearbox outer cover. This bolt instead of a ball on the end is flat. It had to be installed from inside the cover. That moves the pivot point out a little bit. With these two changes I have just enough lift so the box goes into neutral easily and shifts really well. I run four clutch springs. The clutch has 6 springs but I found that with the 6 original springs the action was heavy and with three springs the clutch slipped. I did all these mods during the first few weeks of riding the bike and have left it alone since. The clutch can be lifted easily with two fingers and even with one if you try hard. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Increasing clutch lift for multiplate clutches
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