I bought one of the new ATD's and upon unpacking it a tiny brass washer fell out on the bench. I I inspected the unit
and snapped it to and fro and all seemed to be fine. Thus I installed it, and this time I did it per the Lucas instruction sheets
whereby I was easily able to offer it up to the end of the magneto shaft, start the tubular bolt, and ultimately snug it up
in place. It has been 20 years since I've installed an ATD, have been using the B-TH. Somewhere along the line I came to believe
one should start the bolt to get the unit in position, put a socket over the center bolt and give it a slight rap with a hammer.
Each time I did so, I'd lock up the ears. This time, per instructions, it went on easily using the bolt.
Nevertheless, I failed to start the bike as reported in one of my other posts.
I removed the ATD and upon further inspection I noted the edge of a brass washer UNDER the piece of iron that holds
one of the return springs. It appeared to be a washer. I looked at the other side, and the washer was missing, it was lying
on my bench.
The washer appears to be held in by a stud that goes through the piece of steel that holds the return spring, and
upon assembly the assembler must not have had the washer centered.
So I've packed up the new ATD and returning it.
Since the timing cover was off and the mag still in place I thought I'd time it anyway, (with my bulb) and either await
another ATD or once again try my old one. In the past I have always removed the center bolt from the points holder, put in my alligator
clip turned the points holder until the Shoe J-U-S-T comes in contact with the first bump on the outer ring, and I know
pretty precisely where that is from prior experience, just past 6 o'clock. In fact an old pencil mark still exists there. Thus
the light goes on when I put the clip in the center hole..and goes off when the Shoe hits the bump, signalling the points
have J-U-S-T opened. I used that method multiple times to install the Lucas years back. I never had the points holder pop
out. Now a friend tells me I should definitely leave the bolt in so as not to disturb the points holder.
I've never used one of the magneto synchronizers which emits a buzz when the points just open, so I assumed my light
should do the same. I looked at "1951 Vincent Rapide Part 36 Ignition Timing" from The Mighty Garage on YouTube
and at the 17:00 mark the mechanic hooks up an alligator clip
to a cylinder fin, the other to the movable part of the points. He spins the plot until he gets the buzz, and says 'that's it,' the
points are just opening.
I thought I should be able to do the same with my dashboard light I've used for years. I have two wires soldered to the
light, one to the + battery, the other to the (removed) center bolt. Then I have one wire going from the - side of the battery
to ground (I've used the magneto end clip to hook it to). Thus I hooked up the negative wire to a head fin, and poked around
with the + wire on the point holder. I first tried the movable side of the points, light stayed on. No matter where I put the wire
the light stays on, with the points open or closed.
So where am I going wrong? I can't seem to 'break' the circuit to get the light to go off.
I believe Chris Lauders (spelling) noted I could insulate the center bolt and leave it in, but easier said than done.
Suggestions?
and snapped it to and fro and all seemed to be fine. Thus I installed it, and this time I did it per the Lucas instruction sheets
whereby I was easily able to offer it up to the end of the magneto shaft, start the tubular bolt, and ultimately snug it up
in place. It has been 20 years since I've installed an ATD, have been using the B-TH. Somewhere along the line I came to believe
one should start the bolt to get the unit in position, put a socket over the center bolt and give it a slight rap with a hammer.
Each time I did so, I'd lock up the ears. This time, per instructions, it went on easily using the bolt.
Nevertheless, I failed to start the bike as reported in one of my other posts.
I removed the ATD and upon further inspection I noted the edge of a brass washer UNDER the piece of iron that holds
one of the return springs. It appeared to be a washer. I looked at the other side, and the washer was missing, it was lying
on my bench.
The washer appears to be held in by a stud that goes through the piece of steel that holds the return spring, and
upon assembly the assembler must not have had the washer centered.
So I've packed up the new ATD and returning it.
Since the timing cover was off and the mag still in place I thought I'd time it anyway, (with my bulb) and either await
another ATD or once again try my old one. In the past I have always removed the center bolt from the points holder, put in my alligator
clip turned the points holder until the Shoe J-U-S-T comes in contact with the first bump on the outer ring, and I know
pretty precisely where that is from prior experience, just past 6 o'clock. In fact an old pencil mark still exists there. Thus
the light goes on when I put the clip in the center hole..and goes off when the Shoe hits the bump, signalling the points
have J-U-S-T opened. I used that method multiple times to install the Lucas years back. I never had the points holder pop
out. Now a friend tells me I should definitely leave the bolt in so as not to disturb the points holder.
I've never used one of the magneto synchronizers which emits a buzz when the points just open, so I assumed my light
should do the same. I looked at "1951 Vincent Rapide Part 36 Ignition Timing" from The Mighty Garage on YouTube
to a cylinder fin, the other to the movable part of the points. He spins the plot until he gets the buzz, and says 'that's it,' the
points are just opening.
I thought I should be able to do the same with my dashboard light I've used for years. I have two wires soldered to the
light, one to the + battery, the other to the (removed) center bolt. Then I have one wire going from the - side of the battery
to ground (I've used the magneto end clip to hook it to). Thus I hooked up the negative wire to a head fin, and poked around
with the + wire on the point holder. I first tried the movable side of the points, light stayed on. No matter where I put the wire
the light stays on, with the points open or closed.
So where am I going wrong? I can't seem to 'break' the circuit to get the light to go off.
I believe Chris Lauders (spelling) noted I could insulate the center bolt and leave it in, but easier said than done.
Suggestions?