ET: Engine (Twin) 276 Carb Float Levels

fogrider

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VOC Member
There is another issue with the brass floats. When I stripped and checked my 276's, I sorted out the best bits from 2 other carbs. The resulting and annoying fuel level issues turned out to be the float clip differences, - some floats have a fitted bow clinch type, some have plain tops with a side-push on clip like concentrics. Makes a 1/4" difference in fuel height.
This old duffer must have put a wrong-un in on assembly.
Self inflicted problem !
 

Speedtwin

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Common is damage to both brass and copper components in vintage veteran carbs and fuel pipes.
A verdigris corrosion caused by moisture which is ethanols bed fellow this is reacting with the copper in each of the alloys.
Think there has been some good examples of the same shown on here at different times.
Al
 

Speedtwin

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Carbs set up lovely all is well thanks for your advice went top notch on the plastic floats.
Encountered a front overflow carb traced to the tickler being to long Mr Grinder sorted that out.
Thanks Again for all the Yoda like wisdom.
 

greg brillus

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I think it most common that you need to adjust/modify parts to actually work and get the job done.......If you expect that any part should automatically 'Come good" with the basic adjustment available, then you will be sadly dissapointed.......and often.......Changes in fuel alone will give different readings from the specs when these bikes were made........When setting up the Amal TT's on my twin racer years ago, i had no end of trouble getting the float levels correct (this on methanol).......No matter what changes i made, the level was always too high.......I resorted to some non standard modifications to get a result........But it was worth the effort.......Just takes some out of the box thinking........and carrying out some odd repairs to make it work. The timing chest is an area that is typical of this kind of re work to get everything to a better than average state...... What I'm getting at, is that you can't always simply buy and install a new part and expect perfect results without some re work to make it better.
 

Cyborg

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Amen to that. getting a good part seems to be the exception. The latest one… speedo adapter plate that wouldn’t thread onto the speedo drive. Of course I don’t have a tap that size, so fart around setting it up and indexing it in the lathe, so I can chase the threads.
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I’ve been playing with float needles lately. In these photos, you can see the marks where it seals.

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On this one the wear mark is wider which likely means the float ends up sitting higher.

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Anyone know where I can purchase new float needles for TT Type 14 float bowls part… 14/245 on this side of the pond?
 

PhillSpain

Forum User
VOC Member
What problem does ethanol pose for the original brass floats? Here we're stuck with E10 at the pump, have been for decades, and I've had no issues in this area.
It’s not so much the ethanol it’s the moisture from the atmosphere it absorbs. While the bike is used no problem.
When the bike is laid up for sometime the waters drops out to the bottom of the tank and float bowl bottom, then corrosion takes place.
I also run my Rapide with taps off to empty the carburetors.
drain the tank for winter if not used for long time.
 

litnman

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
You can dress the needles but that raises the float level which is a problem if the needle
has only one groove or hole to attach it to the float. I made new seats to get the needle
back to correct fuel level.
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oexing

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VOC Member
I´d think dressing the needle and lapping it with fine diamond paste in the old seat should do nicely. The difference in float position is quite small and who says it was perfect before ? Making a new groove in the needle is less of a job than replacing the seat ?

Vic

Diamond paste
 

Vincent Brake

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VOC Member
Diamond only on hard parts.
Same for SiC. Sliconcarbide.

As it tends to bed in to base materials. Better have a woman do that...

Use time saver lap.
That will go blunt as you use it.
 
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