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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Wheel bearings.
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 132583" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>These days I am busy with my new hubs to overcome the 5 hole / 10 hole calamities. The rear hub will have one alu brake drum plus sprocket all riveted/ bolted up. At the front wheel both drums riveted to the hub and spoke holes in the drums. </p><p> For bearings after some considerations I kept the metric Timken bearings, a lot more load factor and easy enough for setting up end play. You´d have to fabricate a spacer for inner races with either type, ball or roller bearing. When having taper rollers have the spacer a tad longer, bolt both bearings up and test axial play with clock. Put spacer in lathe and face spacer by same amount from test. Try again for feel and do another skim in lathe to your liking, no shims on plan for me. </p><p> The bearing carriers in my photos are not planned for the hubs but for rear frame pivots, x-rings will seal here , sitting in a small alu ring that is secured in the rear pivot bore with a tiny o-ring for easy disassembling in case.</p><p> After having done axial setting get REAL seals, no felt shit, and assemble the lot after greasing the bearings. I have fabricated alu grease retainers at the inner side in the hub - or rear frame pivot bearings, no grease nipples at all. Just keep water and dirt out with twin lipped seals and that was that - for decades. Did you ever regrease your car wheel bearings ??? My guess, not really, so why on bikes ? I did not like any nuts for setting bearing floats anywhere, just have correct spacers made and no more worry about this in decades. </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]39425[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]39426[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]39427[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 132583, member: 1493"] These days I am busy with my new hubs to overcome the 5 hole / 10 hole calamities. The rear hub will have one alu brake drum plus sprocket all riveted/ bolted up. At the front wheel both drums riveted to the hub and spoke holes in the drums. For bearings after some considerations I kept the metric Timken bearings, a lot more load factor and easy enough for setting up end play. You´d have to fabricate a spacer for inner races with either type, ball or roller bearing. When having taper rollers have the spacer a tad longer, bolt both bearings up and test axial play with clock. Put spacer in lathe and face spacer by same amount from test. Try again for feel and do another skim in lathe to your liking, no shims on plan for me. The bearing carriers in my photos are not planned for the hubs but for rear frame pivots, x-rings will seal here , sitting in a small alu ring that is secured in the rear pivot bore with a tiny o-ring for easy disassembling in case. After having done axial setting get REAL seals, no felt shit, and assemble the lot after greasing the bearings. I have fabricated alu grease retainers at the inner side in the hub - or rear frame pivot bearings, no grease nipples at all. Just keep water and dirt out with twin lipped seals and that was that - for decades. Did you ever regrease your car wheel bearings ??? My guess, not really, so why on bikes ? I did not like any nuts for setting bearing floats anywhere, just have correct spacers made and no more worry about this in decades. Vic [ATTACH type="full"]39425[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]39426[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]39427[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Wheel bearings.
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