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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Still Can't Start My Twin, Replaced Mag, But Not A Pop
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<blockquote data-quote="CarlHungness" data-source="post: 174123" data-attributes="member: 2517"><p>Received my new ATD today and as I was unpacking it a tiny brass washer fell out on the bench, an</p><p>ominous sign. I looked it over and discovered the ears separate 1/4" whereby the originals had </p><p>5/16' between them, so wondered if timing would be affected.</p><p> Not sure precisely how to proceed I put a very small amount of valve grinding paste (that I had rubbed </p><p>into a steel plate in an effort to make it less abrasive) on the nose of the mag, put the ATD on and spun it</p><p>to and fro a few times. I checked it with Dykem bluing and it seemed to be touching all the way 'round.</p><p> Per usual I got the rear piston on TDC, backed it down a bit, installed my piston stop, went through my</p><p>drill on the mag with my light on-off, on-off, etc. to try and make sure I was at precisely 35 degrees. I put </p><p>my bolt in the earth brush hole, finger tightened and offered the ATD up to the mag. I was able to start the</p><p>bolt with the horseshoe washer in place, pulling back on the ATD as I went, and according to the Lucas </p><p>workshop manual I tightened the bolt with my fingers and was positive the plot was moving home. I then </p><p>tightened it with a socket whilst holding the center bolt in the mag with another socket, and the ATD went</p><p>full home, or so I think.</p><p> I went through my starting drill, which now is different than what I've done in the past. Open taps, let sit</p><p>for 3-4 minutes, tickle both, pull in de-comp kick through 3 times, then kick through once levering the de-comp</p><p>so I believe I am actually sucking fuel into the carbs. Let sit 15-20 second hoping fuel will atomize. It is now easy </p><p>enough for me to find a long stroke, which sure seems to be followed by rear carb sucking, then short stroke..and </p><p>j-u-s-t ease over short...bring lever back, and again, it seems as though I am getting a nice, full swing in to spin </p><p>the engine. </p><p> Nothing. No pop. Nada</p><p> Did it all again multiple times. Maybe it's flooded. Open twist grip, kick through 3 times, start over. Nothing.</p><p>Somewhere in the action I decide to open the throttle and kick it...and for the first time in my ownership, it kicks back! Ka-Chunk. I opened the throttle and it kicked back again, no pop.</p><p> Took out plugs, rear valve caps off, look at the valves, exhaust is opening, then closing. Watch until I see Intake opening, then closing, go round and piston at the bottom. Put finger in hole, can feel a bit of a poof, am</p><p>as sure as I can be I'm on compression. Bring it up to TDC, back it up, put piston stop in, get piston to hit stop, </p><p>look at mag, and the 'shoe' on the ring is right where it has been for over 30 years when my timing is right..it</p><p>is just approaching the bump.</p><p> Am sure as my meager abilities allow I have it timed right. How did I get kick-back? As noted earlier</p><p>my previous starting method all these years has been positively wrong...if it didn't start in 2-3 kicks, which it </p><p>never did, I'd open the throttle, kick and release decomp, and it'd start in 2-3 more kicks. This time I am literally</p><p>not opening the throttle..maybe a millimeter or two. </p><p> I'm now to the point of questioning my own abilities. To install the ATD I removed the timing chest to </p><p>once again make sure it went on perfectly, ears blocked open with 1/4' bolt, etc.</p><p> I'm about as knackered as a man can get trying to get this machine to run. Pal Glen Bewley says he can</p><p>take a look at it in late summer, so for once the Beast has beaten me. I am SO out of options I am just going to</p><p>cover it up. The Lucas is rebuilt, $400, the ATD is new $350, new jets, etc., etc. Maybe I'm not supposed to ride</p><p>this year.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CarlHungness, post: 174123, member: 2517"] Received my new ATD today and as I was unpacking it a tiny brass washer fell out on the bench, an ominous sign. I looked it over and discovered the ears separate 1/4" whereby the originals had 5/16' between them, so wondered if timing would be affected. Not sure precisely how to proceed I put a very small amount of valve grinding paste (that I had rubbed into a steel plate in an effort to make it less abrasive) on the nose of the mag, put the ATD on and spun it to and fro a few times. I checked it with Dykem bluing and it seemed to be touching all the way 'round. Per usual I got the rear piston on TDC, backed it down a bit, installed my piston stop, went through my drill on the mag with my light on-off, on-off, etc. to try and make sure I was at precisely 35 degrees. I put my bolt in the earth brush hole, finger tightened and offered the ATD up to the mag. I was able to start the bolt with the horseshoe washer in place, pulling back on the ATD as I went, and according to the Lucas workshop manual I tightened the bolt with my fingers and was positive the plot was moving home. I then tightened it with a socket whilst holding the center bolt in the mag with another socket, and the ATD went full home, or so I think. I went through my starting drill, which now is different than what I've done in the past. Open taps, let sit for 3-4 minutes, tickle both, pull in de-comp kick through 3 times, then kick through once levering the de-comp so I believe I am actually sucking fuel into the carbs. Let sit 15-20 second hoping fuel will atomize. It is now easy enough for me to find a long stroke, which sure seems to be followed by rear carb sucking, then short stroke..and j-u-s-t ease over short...bring lever back, and again, it seems as though I am getting a nice, full swing in to spin the engine. Nothing. No pop. Nada Did it all again multiple times. Maybe it's flooded. Open twist grip, kick through 3 times, start over. Nothing. Somewhere in the action I decide to open the throttle and kick it...and for the first time in my ownership, it kicks back! Ka-Chunk. I opened the throttle and it kicked back again, no pop. Took out plugs, rear valve caps off, look at the valves, exhaust is opening, then closing. Watch until I see Intake opening, then closing, go round and piston at the bottom. Put finger in hole, can feel a bit of a poof, am as sure as I can be I'm on compression. Bring it up to TDC, back it up, put piston stop in, get piston to hit stop, look at mag, and the 'shoe' on the ring is right where it has been for over 30 years when my timing is right..it is just approaching the bump. Am sure as my meager abilities allow I have it timed right. How did I get kick-back? As noted earlier my previous starting method all these years has been positively wrong...if it didn't start in 2-3 kicks, which it never did, I'd open the throttle, kick and release decomp, and it'd start in 2-3 more kicks. This time I am literally not opening the throttle..maybe a millimeter or two. I'm now to the point of questioning my own abilities. To install the ATD I removed the timing chest to once again make sure it went on perfectly, ears blocked open with 1/4' bolt, etc. I'm about as knackered as a man can get trying to get this machine to run. Pal Glen Bewley says he can take a look at it in late summer, so for once the Beast has beaten me. I am SO out of options I am just going to cover it up. The Lucas is rebuilt, $400, the ATD is new $350, new jets, etc., etc. Maybe I'm not supposed to ride this year. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Still Can't Start My Twin, Replaced Mag, But Not A Pop
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