E: Engine PD7 nut
- Thread starter Michel
- Start date
the spares does have a toothed tool that locks the esa and the clutch assembly dead tight so one can tighten and remove the esa nut. When you do get the nut off, turn the thick flat washer around so the little dimples face out. Use the flat side against the springs.
) BUT make sure you are on the compression stroke. Just stuff it in the plug hole with the piston on the upstroke. but leave a bit sticking out to pull it out with Bruce´s locking wood is allright but better have a length of alu flat for that, safer and durable.
Turning the fat spring plate around for springs to sit on the plain face does not look like a great idea to me: Think about centrifugal forces on spring ends, they will try to walk out radially and get squeezed between plates leading to broken bits. Also I´d think springs could get coil bound when the original recesses no longer there when you swap sides of that plate. So then broken springs again - and it will not help a bit for preventing jammed ESA at high torque loads in the primary drive. The shapes of the ESA cams are stll way too flat, D type or earlier, for preventing the brutal bashing of plates from chain loads. The ESA design is just not suitable as is, a locked or welded up ESA would be easier on the engine and primary than the useless original.
Don´t worry about maximum torques on ESA nut or elsewhere like the rear chain sprocket nut: You will never get nuts and components next to them absolutely solidly locked, loads from drives are a lot higher than any torques you can achieve to have zero fretting between components. So just do the nuts up as you can and have some safety means like tab washers or normal Loctite for securing the lot. Best way is to have splines with minimum play from all new parts.
Vic
Turning the fat spring plate around for springs to sit on the plain face does not look like a great idea to me: Think about centrifugal forces on spring ends, they will try to walk out radially and get squeezed between plates leading to broken bits. Also I´d think springs could get coil bound when the original recesses no longer there when you swap sides of that plate. So then broken springs again - and it will not help a bit for preventing jammed ESA at high torque loads in the primary drive. The shapes of the ESA cams are stll way too flat, D type or earlier, for preventing the brutal bashing of plates from chain loads. The ESA design is just not suitable as is, a locked or welded up ESA would be easier on the engine and primary than the useless original.
Don´t worry about maximum torques on ESA nut or elsewhere like the rear chain sprocket nut: You will never get nuts and components next to them absolutely solidly locked, loads from drives are a lot higher than any torques you can achieve to have zero fretting between components. So just do the nuts up as you can and have some safety means like tab washers or normal Loctite for securing the lot. Best way is to have splines with minimum play from all new parts.
Vic
For those who may be interested the bearing tube part on the back of C3 is the same external diameter as PD2, and as the crankshaft and gearbox main shafts are the same spline an appropriate section of a scrap/broken C3 can be welded straight into the sprocket.
Just one of my jobs, I recently got a sprocket with badly worn ESA ramps and where it abuts the main bearing but with good teeth, and I have an old C3 with ridged and galled bearing surface.
Just one of my jobs, I recently got a sprocket with badly worn ESA ramps and where it abuts the main bearing but with good teeth, and I have an old C3 with ridged and galled bearing surface.