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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Mark Cooper Rapide Electric Starter
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 164582" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Most of the time the engines crank with no issue at all.........but at some point, they can and do struggle........with a powerful starter and a descent battery, it can do damage to either the ring gear and/or the starter itself....... i rescently finished off the long term build of a Norvin that was built by a local Brisbane member using a new RTV engine......... He had gone to some extra effort to install a better starter motor, it was from a Honda car engine from memory, and he had a super expensive and large Lithium Ion battery under the rear seat hump.......This engine had the solenoid decompressor release in each head.........It cranked over extremely well and most all the time, it did not even need the use of the decomp valves.......It seems to me that running the Vincent ESA can make or break the starter set up........ The massive load of the starter turning the engine over, then once the engine fires.......the ESA goes from fully ramped one way to fully the other way........This can and does send a massive shock load back to the starter/ring gear and it seriously sounds like you are hitting the starter with a sledge hammer........The resulting damage can be instant.......so running a belt drive with pullies and no ESA seems to work far better. The only issue then is you have no cush drive in the system........The pounding pulses from a V twin can be destructive on the drive train, so a cush drive in the rear hub would be better than nothing........The starter set ups that use a belt drive don't seem to suffer so much verses a chain driven primary using the stock ESA. This has been my findings so far, on the electric starters that turn the clutch chain wheel or pully........Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 164582, member: 597"] Most of the time the engines crank with no issue at all.........but at some point, they can and do struggle........with a powerful starter and a descent battery, it can do damage to either the ring gear and/or the starter itself....... i rescently finished off the long term build of a Norvin that was built by a local Brisbane member using a new RTV engine......... He had gone to some extra effort to install a better starter motor, it was from a Honda car engine from memory, and he had a super expensive and large Lithium Ion battery under the rear seat hump.......This engine had the solenoid decompressor release in each head.........It cranked over extremely well and most all the time, it did not even need the use of the decomp valves.......It seems to me that running the Vincent ESA can make or break the starter set up........ The massive load of the starter turning the engine over, then once the engine fires.......the ESA goes from fully ramped one way to fully the other way........This can and does send a massive shock load back to the starter/ring gear and it seriously sounds like you are hitting the starter with a sledge hammer........The resulting damage can be instant.......so running a belt drive with pullies and no ESA seems to work far better. The only issue then is you have no cush drive in the system........The pounding pulses from a V twin can be destructive on the drive train, so a cush drive in the rear hub would be better than nothing........The starter set ups that use a belt drive don't seem to suffer so much verses a chain driven primary using the stock ESA. This has been my findings so far, on the electric starters that turn the clutch chain wheel or pully........Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Mark Cooper Rapide Electric Starter
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