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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Main bearing outer race width
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 90795" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>Several things come to mind from various of the above. First Bill; the screws used were purpose made large, cheese headed screws with slot heads. After they were screwed in the ali was punched into the slots to stop the screws rotating and prevent any head that broke of its thread falling out.</p><p>Next; crank pins. I always used special crankpins for sprinting/racing. On these the large diameter of the crankpin is extended at each end so that it has to be pressed into the flywheels which have to have the holes for the crank pin bored out on each inner face. The hardened washers also have to be bored out. Castellated Manx Norton nuts were used on each end of the crank pin. This way the stiffness of the crank shaft assembly is massively increased. It no longer relies entirely on the relatively small diameter of the ends of the original crank pin and the normal nuts.</p><p>Finally, the complete answer to drive side bearings walking in is the modification that fits a special top had bush into the crank case opening for the drive side bearing. This opening has to be enlarged and the outer face relieved to take the thickness of the flange on the outer end of the top hat bush. The inside of the top hat bush has an inner smaller diameter ring inside and back to back taper roller bearings are fitted. The outer inner end of the top hat bush has a thread and into that is screwed a ring to take an oil seal. The whole assembly is pulled up tight when the ESA nut is tightened and the lay out of the bearings prevents any possible walk inwards of the bearings. I have hoped for years that someone would come up with a design for this and produce some to be fitted by engine repairers. It does require that the bearing housing is machined but if it is worn anyway then there is no loss there. The design was sketched out for me by Robert Watson and my understanding is that several of our Canadian members have this modification fitted and they have lasted for years.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 90795, member: 456"] Several things come to mind from various of the above. First Bill; the screws used were purpose made large, cheese headed screws with slot heads. After they were screwed in the ali was punched into the slots to stop the screws rotating and prevent any head that broke of its thread falling out. Next; crank pins. I always used special crankpins for sprinting/racing. On these the large diameter of the crankpin is extended at each end so that it has to be pressed into the flywheels which have to have the holes for the crank pin bored out on each inner face. The hardened washers also have to be bored out. Castellated Manx Norton nuts were used on each end of the crank pin. This way the stiffness of the crank shaft assembly is massively increased. It no longer relies entirely on the relatively small diameter of the ends of the original crank pin and the normal nuts. Finally, the complete answer to drive side bearings walking in is the modification that fits a special top had bush into the crank case opening for the drive side bearing. This opening has to be enlarged and the outer face relieved to take the thickness of the flange on the outer end of the top hat bush. The inside of the top hat bush has an inner smaller diameter ring inside and back to back taper roller bearings are fitted. The outer inner end of the top hat bush has a thread and into that is screwed a ring to take an oil seal. The whole assembly is pulled up tight when the ESA nut is tightened and the lay out of the bearings prevents any possible walk inwards of the bearings. I have hoped for years that someone would come up with a design for this and produce some to be fitted by engine repairers. It does require that the bearing housing is machined but if it is worn anyway then there is no loss there. The design was sketched out for me by Robert Watson and my understanding is that several of our Canadian members have this modification fitted and they have lasted for years. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Main bearing outer race width
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