FF: Forks How Much Space Do You Have Between FF3 (Bottom Link) and Gas Tank?

[CarlHungness]

I forgot to check the gauge. I used a thick towel between the shot bag and the steel piece because I did not want to cut the leather on the shot bag. I also used an English wheel on the rear hump on the tank as you can see from the shine.

I TIG weld mostly. I have a Henrob, which is a low-pressure welding setup. It works well for acetylene welding aluminum, but the torch is a little heavy for my taste. TIG is a bit more comfortable.

I mounted foam on the UFM and held the tank on with a strap. I anticipated making an aluminum tank but scrapped the idea of a full-size tank because the system was too heavy for racing, mostly because the tank held too much fuel.

David

Thanks for the reply. I have a Henrob I haven't used and have it up for sale. I know it is pretty good for aluminum, but too heavy for my taste too. I am getting a Meco Midget Torch. I just joined a metal shapers group and went to a 'convention' held at Jim Hery's home. He's a master craftsman who can build an entire Bugatti from flat sheets. A friend of mine has been doing loads of aluminum for over 40 years and uses Bert Weld lenses, made in WWII and no longer available. TM Technologies 'copied' the Bert weld lenses and they are about 90% as good. They cost around $275. I tried the Bert's next to the TM's and the Bert's were 100% perfect and the TM's were about90%. They are a little darker. You can't really hammer the TIG weld on aluminum as well as you can the oxy. My friend uses hydrogen, 1 to1 1/2 lbs, same with oxy. It's going to be a while before I get to the hammering as I'm finishing up the restoration of my '37 LaSalle, and then have to do one violin sculpture. But hope to learn a lot in the meantime.

 

[davidd]

Carl,

I think I used 20 gauge steel at 0.0359" based on what I can measure. The Henrob is nice because you can use such low pressure, that the flame will have a hard time melting the aluminum. A tad more heat and you are welding. I have cut back on my welding work quite a bit, but it is hard to go without it.

I have used the TM lenses for years. It sounds like you are in good company.

David

 

[CarlHungness]

Hi: 20 Guage is 0.0319" and 19 is 0.0358" and I have been planning to use
.063" aluminum which seems like quarter inch to me...Possibly I'll use some
steel. My right thumb didn't move at all for a total of 37 years. Had an operation and got about 60% usage, then became a violin apprentice. The
thumb broke after 20 years, went another five as it didn't move, another
operation has given me about 50% usage but there's big hump on the
bone at the rear so using a hammer knocks the skin off right away. I have
a leather cover for the front, still experimenting with the back. I need to
hammer this stuff first to learn how it moves, then hope to progress to
at least a good planishing hammer, and power hammer. So I have a long
learning curve, but I've been there before. Your tank came out just great
and I was really impressed with your method of putting all the pieces
together, it worked just fine.

 

[Chris Launders]

Somewhere in the pipeline I am making a stainless steel tank for my Brough Superior, these are relatively easy as only the front is compound curved, the rest is just rolled flat sheet, to make things easier I have had some stainless steel bowls spun which can then be cut up to provide the front domes, they will require some reshaping but 90% of the work is done for me, I had them done in 1.25mm so there is plenty of material to not worry about distorting when welded or grinding down and polishing.

I made this steel one using sections from an existing aftermarket custom tank and 1mm sheet, this is just Scotchbrighted and lacquered to look like nickel plate.

No I'm not a multi millionaire, I made the entire bike from scratch and it took about 10 years and £10k

 

[CarlHungness]

Wow

Somewhere in the pipeline I am making a stainless steel tank for my Brough Superior, these are relatively easy as only the front is compound curved, the rest is just rolled flat sheet, to make things easier I have had some stainless steel bowls spun which can then be cut up to provide the front domes, they will require some reshaping but 90% of the work is done for me, I had them done in 1.25mm so there is plenty of material to not worry about distorting when welded or grinding down and polishing.

I made this steel one using sections from an existing aftermarket custom tank and 1mm sheet, this is just Scotchbrighted and lacquered to look like nickel plate.

No I'm not a multi millionaire, I made the entire bike from scratch and it took about 10 years and £10k


View attachment 53303

,Wow...extremely impressive, and very nice job overall. You sure showed some perseverance gathering all the gubbins and the result was sure worth it. I appreciate the work you've done very much. Thanks for posting too.

 

[davidd]

20 gauge carbon steel should be 0.0359". 20 gauge aluminum is 0.0320". 20 gauge SS is 0.0375". The industry standards are established by weight, so different metals have different thicknesses.

Steel & Aluminum Metal Gauge Chart | UniPunch Tooling

Use our handy chart to convert standard gauge numbers in decimals of an inch for sheet steel, aluminum and stainless steel.

unipunch.com

David

 

[CarlHungness]

Thanks, will 'ave another look at my charts. It sounds like the steel you used may be a bit easier to knock into shape than .063" aluminum. Glad you supplied the tech specs for it, I've saved them. Very helpful.

 

[davidd]

Carl,

It took some serious pounding, but that is why I used so many pieces. However, I did not have to anneal the steel after working it. I often annealed aluminum parts, but it is easy to anneal and very easy to work compared to steel.

David

 

[CarlHungness]

Carl,

It took some serious pounding, but that is why I used so many pieces. However, I did not have to anneal the steel after working it. I often annealed aluminum parts, but it is easy to anneal and very easy to work compared to steel.

David

Sounds as though you have a journeyman's experience and here I'm just an apprentice with enough knowledge to get me in trouble. I'm working on a glove/protector as the bone at the joint end of my thumb protrudes about 3/8" upward and swinging a hammer causes the inner skin to leave pretty quickly. I've been hassling with this thumb for well over 60 years and I'll overcome this too. My violin teacher said, "Oh I don't think you can continue," when I first met her as I had a huge red rubber sewing tip on the thumb and held the bow like a hammer. I cloned her on open strings while she turned her head away and she said, "Well you've got me convinced." It's been a long road, but I just got promoted to second chair in the Hanover College Symphony Orchestra with a violin I built. So the aluminum/metal is just another speed bump and I can sure see the challenges. I may have to do it lefty.