FT: Frame (Twin) How Horrible of an Idea Is This?

Whiteshadow15

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
So I’m certain I know the answer but still never hurts for other input. I recently acquired a red frame and unbeknownst to myself appears to have been laid down many years ago and the right lug took the brunt of the damage. I had planned on keeping the original paint intact and hate to put a brand new lug and have the rest original.

The frame appears to fortunately still be as straight as can be.

Any chance it’s safe to run it as is? How difficult would it be to not alter the rest of the paint with replacing?

Again, I’m certain replacing is the only answer.


9E162EF6-6CE2-4F13-8FA5-4576F27DA134.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I'm not an engineer's bootlace, but I wouldn't be happy running it because of the amount of tubing you've lost inside of the lug. Remember you've got up and down loading and load from the drive chain as well (unless it's a super rare red Comet!) Remember, even kickstarting on the stand stresses this area. I'd maybe find a place that professionally matches paint colour and then go and buy a new FT9R and get it professionally pinned and brazed.
 

Shane998

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
So I’m certain I know the answer but still never hurts for other input. I recently acquired a red frame and unbeknownst to myself appears to have been laid down many years ago and the right lug took the brunt of the damage. I had planned on keeping the original paint intact and hate to put a brand new lug and have the rest original.

The frame appears to fortunately still be as straight as can be.

Any chance it’s safe to run it as is? How difficult would it be to not alter the rest of the paint with replacing?

Again, I’m certain replacing is the only answer.


View attachment 53756
The paint will be ok apart from close to the repair
 

Speedtwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Agree,
Replace the FT9R.
Professional pin and braze.
Before embarking on a local RFM repair.

Things worth considering for safety strength and roadworthiness.

No doubt it has had a good bump and buff do no harm to check around all the RFM connecting joints.
Maybe check the tubes themselves as being true crack free with a good wall thickness. .
I would also closely examine the joint at the FT6/2AS.
Look for any paint cracking over joints firstly.
They can flex and return brazing experts can add some thought to this I am not knowable on brazed joints.

Maybe have the RFM examined or tested by NDT.
This can be non intrusive and can preserve the present coating.

To conserve leave as much original finish, I would not have a problem replacing a damaged part on safety grounds documenting and leaving the rehabilitation fresh coated to a point and obvious.

Sometimes from experience the visible damage to frames may only be the start of it.
Side impact hard landings or slide damage forces transfer across the structure/RFM from side to side or can have a tail end leverage effect on all the upstream joints for instance on the FT6/2AS and the junction points above.

NDT examination is cheap enough for the peace of mind and the forward planning of the extent of repair, if you can bring the part to the NDT company all the better,I would have them check the tubes, and x ray the joints.

Have seen less obvious damage result in cracking of brazed joints circumferential cracking of tubes/brazed joints not visible with the naked eye due to coating flex and only revealed by x ray.
This is my go to before planning safe repairs to frames.

Have seen powder coated frames hide damage well, painted joints can also hide damage well hey presto when coating removed faults and cracks exposed.

Not all doom and gloom all fixable.
I think you could fix it and localise the rehab to keep it honest and safe.

Al
 
Top