Misc: Stands Hills Stand

[bmetcalf]

Well, that didn't last long. I noticed my Hills stand legs were leaning back a lot and dismantled for inspection. The little plate welded there to stop the rotation of the stand had broken away from the engine plate.

I think that a gusset where the yellow rectangle is, together with a longer stop plate would support it better. Any thoughts?

Oexing was right about it not being ideal there. I'll let VOCSC know about this, even though I got it from Dave, so that the design can be revised. Unless I am the only abuser with the problem.

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Making a stand inspired by Dave's design -using Girdraulic fork bushes + spindle. I've got a slightly different set up as i want to keep my sidestand and the Grey Flash alloy foot rest mounts -but considered same issue, looked narrow to me, so i'm kind of thinking as other's have indicated flat to flat a better solution to spread load, just rib for support in each case -be a lot stronger, just measure carefully before welding up, can always shave down with a file -I'm using 6mm mild plate which will be tempered.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Well, that didn't last long. I noticed my Hills stand legs were leaning back a lot and dismantled for inspection. The little plate welded there to stop the rotation of the stand had broken away from the engine plate.

I think that a gusset where the yellow rectangle is, together with a longer stop plate would support it better. Any thoughts?

Oexing was right about it not being ideal there. I'll let VOCSC know about this, even though I got it from Dave, so that the design can be revised. Unless I am the only abuser with the problem.View attachment 44042

I had the same issue a few years back. Was adding fuel when very slowley the bike started to topple. as the stand collapsed.

Rescued the bits and had them welded with full beads in place of the original tack welds

 

[bmetcalf]

The plate weld has no penetration. The repair will be better in that area.

Would the plate have stayed in place with more penetration? There will be a gusset in any event.

 

[oexing]

Maybe one could set the stop brackets laterally in line with engine plates so no welding on engine plates is required. I´d make them min. 5 cm /2 " long from the pivot center so a lot less load on stops then. When you zoom in my Horex photo below you can see the black bracket with the big hole in it resting on the polished alu engine plates, good enough when not too close to the pivots, on both sides certainly. Also twin springs would ´be better, softer to hook them on stand , but headscratching needed for finding the suitable places so the stand will keep up - plus in down position not trying to lift the lot ! A piece of paper for seeing the geometry in both positions. The springs on the Horex are not visible from the side.

Vic

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Tend to sketch out before fabricating parts as a starting point -think if the plate is flat faced to a stop face it'll be a lot stronger -could weld a bar across if you wanted stops on both sides, just remove central portion once checked and set. I'm putting an old 1100 Katana spring and stop on the RH side, because there's no chain on a Comet on that side & the stop can be made quite hefty, hidden behind exhaust -leaves chain clearance on otherside...and for me the sidestand and hidden spring which is inward facing, stays hidden. Only way i think to resolve the problem with the Dave Hills seems to be gusseted thick flat plates, or move the stop to the otherside where you have space?