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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Girdraulic Forks Removal Any Tips Please
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 156006" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>I</p><p>It is going to depend upon exactly what you have. Here are some suggestions. With the bike on its wheels and the front damper partly compressed remove the front damper. Then get the front end in the air, possibly on the original front stand but if you still have the original full length front mudguard it will help if you use some blocks under the front stand to raise the front end. The reason for this is to allow the easier removal of the front wheel. Next remove the two trunnions which locate the bottom end of the brake cables into the brake arm. Remove the speedometer cable. Next remove the front wheel spindle and allow the wheel to fall to the floor. It should now tilt to one side and slide out from under the front mudguard. The pressure on the front springs is now reduced as the fork blades have got to their lowest position. If you use some cloth to protect the lower mudguard stays you can now carefully remove the bottom bolts from the spring boxes. It might be necessary to insert a thin screw driver between the top inside of the spring box fork and the boss on the girdraulic blade to take some of the pressure of the lower bolt. Now totally remove the spring boxes.</p><p></p><p>What happens next depends upon whether you have a plug and socket in the feed to the headlamp. If you have then it is easy. If not then you have to decide where you will break the continuity of the cables. There will be several cables going from the rear of the bike to the ammeter and switches and some more from the dip switch into the head lamp. At the worst you will have to disconnect all these, one at a time, and label where they should be attached to.</p><p></p><p>The next step depends upon what you intend to do. You could remove the lower front spindle and the upper rear spindle and then take away the forks, headlamp etc. If the concentrics are well adjusted then you can leave well alone. If they are sloppy, and many are, then you could remove the eccentrics from the bottom of the steering head, dismantle, clean and keep a record of what shims are where. On the other hand if you intend to remove the steering head spindle you can start to slacken the friction steering damper, slacken the top nut which pre-loads the cup and cone head races and slowly lower the forks plus steering head. At this stage you should have someone to help you by holding a clean plastic container under the steering head and trying to catch all the ball bearings which will fall out and pick up any dirt they can find on the floor of your workshop.</p><p></p><p>If the head races are good and the eccentrics seem ok then you can leave all that in place and just take the forks, headlamp, mudguard, stay etc. away from the rest of the bike.</p><p></p><p>If you let us know what the condition of the parts is and/or send a photograph it might be possible to give you different ideas as to how to go about this job.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 156006, member: 456"] I It is going to depend upon exactly what you have. Here are some suggestions. With the bike on its wheels and the front damper partly compressed remove the front damper. Then get the front end in the air, possibly on the original front stand but if you still have the original full length front mudguard it will help if you use some blocks under the front stand to raise the front end. The reason for this is to allow the easier removal of the front wheel. Next remove the two trunnions which locate the bottom end of the brake cables into the brake arm. Remove the speedometer cable. Next remove the front wheel spindle and allow the wheel to fall to the floor. It should now tilt to one side and slide out from under the front mudguard. The pressure on the front springs is now reduced as the fork blades have got to their lowest position. If you use some cloth to protect the lower mudguard stays you can now carefully remove the bottom bolts from the spring boxes. It might be necessary to insert a thin screw driver between the top inside of the spring box fork and the boss on the girdraulic blade to take some of the pressure of the lower bolt. Now totally remove the spring boxes. What happens next depends upon whether you have a plug and socket in the feed to the headlamp. If you have then it is easy. If not then you have to decide where you will break the continuity of the cables. There will be several cables going from the rear of the bike to the ammeter and switches and some more from the dip switch into the head lamp. At the worst you will have to disconnect all these, one at a time, and label where they should be attached to. The next step depends upon what you intend to do. You could remove the lower front spindle and the upper rear spindle and then take away the forks, headlamp etc. If the concentrics are well adjusted then you can leave well alone. If they are sloppy, and many are, then you could remove the eccentrics from the bottom of the steering head, dismantle, clean and keep a record of what shims are where. On the other hand if you intend to remove the steering head spindle you can start to slacken the friction steering damper, slacken the top nut which pre-loads the cup and cone head races and slowly lower the forks plus steering head. At this stage you should have someone to help you by holding a clean plastic container under the steering head and trying to catch all the ball bearings which will fall out and pick up any dirt they can find on the floor of your workshop. If the head races are good and the eccentrics seem ok then you can leave all that in place and just take the forks, headlamp, mudguard, stay etc. away from the rest of the bike. If you let us know what the condition of the parts is and/or send a photograph it might be possible to give you different ideas as to how to go about this job. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Girdraulic Forks Removal Any Tips Please
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