FF: Forks Fitting Bramptons

[Radiac200]

Any advice please of changing over a twin from a set of Girdraulics to a new set of bramptons I’ve bought …. The rest of the bike is more or less B spec.
I’ve never fitted and Brampton’s though and so thought to ask a bit of advice first before scratching all the new powder coating whilst wrestling with the spring.
Many thanks anyhow.

 

[Robert Watson]

put the damper rod in before the bottom headstock spindle as it has to go through an opening in a cast piece of the damper assembly!

 

[Vincent Brake]

I did compress the spring in a vice.
And than put 3 long fool proof tye raps double round.

Worked a charm.

 

[vibrac]

I know Bramptons are the best certainly the equal for solo use than even a JE Girdraulic but I do gaze at them sometimes and wonder what the tubes are like inside after seventy odd years.
I saw a guy racing one before lockdown and he had a big leather strap round the top link and the bottom lug to save himself if the spring went However as I have a Hydraulic coil over I think that particular event is not on the danger list

 

[oexing]

Drill some small holes in strategic places for checking wall thicknesses. Would you worry about any other frame tubes like on Nortons and all ? For real rust you need a lot of water inside tubes, so I would not be too nervous about corrosion. But I did get bent girder tubes on the 1935 Guzzi after the front brake locked the front wheel when the brake back plate slipped by the anchor bolt. Rust was no factor here, wall thicknesses up to 4 mm .

Vic

 

[Marcus Bowden]

The best thing you will ever do to an early "C"as mine was one too then I rode a "B".My "A" Rap ride well too and then I had an "A" set retubed by Jake in Hastings the idea was to fit them on the Rap but that has gone to France and daughter so I've left them on the Comet. The bikes feel a lot more dainty with Bramptons and far easier to refurbish. Exocentric's are such a pain to O/H.Even with bullets ready to screw on.

 

[Shane998]

Any advice please of changing over a twin from a set of Girdraulics to a new set of bramptons I’ve bought …. The rest of the bike is more or less B spec.
I’ve never fitted and Brampton’s though and so thought to ask a bit of advice first before scratching all the new powder coating whilst wrestling with the spring.
Many thanks anyhow.

Whatever way you go with the assembly you should wrap masking tape around all the areas which might come into contact with each other to protect paint / powder coating

 

[fogrider]

Drill some small holes in strategic places for checking wall thicknesses. Would you worry about any other frame tubes like on Nortons and all ? For real rust you need a lot of water inside tubes, so I would not be too nervous about corrosion. But I did get bent girder tubes on the 1935 Guzzi after the front brake locked the front wheel when the brake back plate slipped by the anchor bolt. Rust was no factor here, wall thicknesses up to 4 mm .

Vic
View attachment 53930

The front tyre must have had massive grip to create so much retarding force - what was it ?

 

[oexing]

I was on a short test ride at low speed for testing new linings. I did not see that the anchor bolt was in short engagement in that slotted backplate extension. So it managed to slip past the bolt and finally pulled at the Bowden wire in its rotation. That put an extreme load on the brake lever to lock the front wheel. Two seconds after we both, Guzzi and myself flat on the road - with consequences for many days to rectify. Possibly the brake lever hit the mudguard stay and put that bend into it, don´t remember. Anyway, a lengthy job to straighten all parts of the girder. At same time I replaced the 30 000 km Permaglide teflon/graphite bushes for IGUS "plastic" bushes that you can line-ream. No test ride up to now still, no bike ride this year yet, other matters on priority . . . .

Vic

anchor bolt :