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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cracked FF3 Lower Link?
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 163107" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Vic,</p><p></p><p>That particular link was discovered on David Tompkins's racer. My advice was to replace it, but none was available. He had a few days before leaving for a race. It was stripped and as I remember there were cracks in the paint and that arm was bent. He was worried about the amount of force needed to bend it back. I told him that the lower link is pretty soft and it could be bent easily.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]53496[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>He set it up on the milling machine shown above and gave it a tweak or two and it was done. He intended to take it apart after the race as he wanted to install a new steering stem and taper rollers. He experienced breakage of the lower steering head bearing. I had made two stems that, you will be happy to hear, are metric. This allowed me to fit a metric taper roller and a shim into the stock steering head. I see the old steering stem on the miller, so I am fairly sure of the order.</p><p></p><p>I am not sure I remember the fate of the lower link. I remember when he swapped to my steering stem he installed bearings in the lower link he ended up using.</p><p></p><p>I think the lower link is just not quite as strong as one would think. I suspect it is just cast steel. The 1/8" thickness is the same wall thickness used in the steering head and they bend easily also. The steering head is also cast steel. I have not seen a catastrophic failure of the bottom link, which is a good sign. I bought a new lower link for the road racer I am building now. I always buy a new FF1, also.</p><p></p><p>The best grease coupler I found was the LockNLube coupler. It is good for over 10,000 lb. I like it because it fits all sizes of fitting as it is designed to lock to the fitting.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?variant=32586284204116[/URL]</p><p></p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 163107, member: 1177"] Vic, That particular link was discovered on David Tompkins's racer. My advice was to replace it, but none was available. He had a few days before leaving for a race. It was stripped and as I remember there were cracks in the paint and that arm was bent. He was worried about the amount of force needed to bend it back. I told him that the lower link is pretty soft and it could be bent easily. [ATTACH type="full" alt="thumbnail_image2 (1).jpg"]53496[/ATTACH] He set it up on the milling machine shown above and gave it a tweak or two and it was done. He intended to take it apart after the race as he wanted to install a new steering stem and taper rollers. He experienced breakage of the lower steering head bearing. I had made two stems that, you will be happy to hear, are metric. This allowed me to fit a metric taper roller and a shim into the stock steering head. I see the old steering stem on the miller, so I am fairly sure of the order. I am not sure I remember the fate of the lower link. I remember when he swapped to my steering stem he installed bearings in the lower link he ended up using. I think the lower link is just not quite as strong as one would think. I suspect it is just cast steel. The 1/8" thickness is the same wall thickness used in the steering head and they bend easily also. The steering head is also cast steel. I have not seen a catastrophic failure of the bottom link, which is a good sign. I bought a new lower link for the road racer I am building now. I always buy a new FF1, also. The best grease coupler I found was the LockNLube coupler. It is good for over 10,000 lb. I like it because it fits all sizes of fitting as it is designed to lock to the fitting. [URL unfurl="true"]https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?variant=32586284204116[/URL] David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cracked FF3 Lower Link?
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