Misc: Everything Else Cleaning upper frame member

vibrac

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We are not dealing with a vast pressurized oil flow here the holes in the banjo have proved quite suitable over the years It is worth checking the stop valve operation though. On a couple of my Vincents I havent got a stop valve, what I do have is a brass BSP nut to fit the output thread, with a copper coin soldered over the end, a small piece of rag and a swift hand :D
I find the coin/nut useful in petrol pipe manipulations as well
 

bmetcalf

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That valve enables you to disconnect the pump feed line in order to remove the timing cover, without draining the oil tank.
 

Dynamiteboss

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VOC Member
May I suggest that you combine removing the oil tank from the steering head and cutting the hole for the manhole mod. Do the cleaning operation before fitting the manhole ring. The sludge trap then will be clearly visible..
When I get to that point of “restoration “ I agree, but at the present time, I am just cleaning and fixing what is necessary to coax the old Beast beck to intermittent life after 30 years of storage.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Cyborg

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If it were me, once started, I wouldn’t stop until I was sure it was clean. I’m not anti inspection hole, but just did a tank without one. The cleaning took several different steps starting with a mix of solvent and diesel pumped into the tank. Rinsed out and completely filled with a semi weak solution of muriatic acid and allowed to sit for several days. Rinsed again and then shaking with roofing nails inside ( short drywall screws are better) . Rinsed out again neutralized ... quick rinse with phosphoric acid to prevent rust. Checked progress with a bore scope. Within the slurry that came out were the bits shown in the photo. The tank is now clean. Safe to say the inspection hole would be easier. It should definitely be mounted towards the rear to give proper access to the settling pond.

C2225850-7AEF-49C8-A3C3-A89391CA4641.jpeg
 

Dynamiteboss

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VOC Member
Or more bluntly, do it right or do it twice.
I like that. I haven’t heard that before. If you don’t mind, I’ll probably steal it and use it on a few of my friends here in the U.S.

I completely agree with you, but my goal at this time is not complete refurbishment, only to get the motor started and see if the big end, cylinders, valves etc function, then make a determination on how to proceed. I’m sure some of my work will have to be repeated, maybe by professionals. The timing chest was a disaster. I have now replaced every moving part in the timing chest with new. All done by me, under the tutelage of some very well respected Vincent experts here in the U.S. Now I have moved on to cleaning & repairing the fuel & oil systems to “reasonable” condition to support initial running of the motor.

I am new to the Vincent community, since October ‘19, after having unexpectedly being the winning bidder at a sale. I have recently “discovered“ the huge resource of this site. I really appreciate all the knowledgeable comments and suggestions freely offered.

Best regards to all,

Richard Gibson
Rockford, Illinois, USA
 

Dynamiteboss

Active Forum User
VOC Member
If it were me, once started, I wouldn’t stop until I was sure it was clean. I’m not anti inspection hole, but just did a tank without one. The cleaning took several different steps starting with a mix of solvent and diesel pumped into the tank. Rinsed out and completely filled with a semi weak solution of muriatic acid and allowed to sit for several days. Rinsed again and then shaking with roofing nails inside ( short drywall screws are better) . Rinsed out again neutralized ... quick rinse with phosphoric acid to prevent rust. Checked progress with a bore scope. Within the slurry that came out were the bits shown in the photo. The tank is now clean. Safe to say the inspection hole would be easier. It should definitely be mounted towards the rear to give proper access to the settling pond.

View attachment 40743
That’s ugly.

I haven’t gotten anything like that out of mine. I’m on my 4th “soak, agitate, drain” cycle with kerosene. I carefully inspect my drainings. To date, only soft sludge and very, very fine, barely visible metal particles, mostly aluminum & brass.
 
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craig

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Before grinding a hole in the top of an UFM for clean out, what is the best UFM interior prep.
I have residual kerosene in mine now.

Should any grinding or hole drilling be done with the UFM full of water?

Thanks
Craig

20210228_UFMSlotPrep.jpg

First slot idea to not interfere with tank mounting.
Might need to move it back.
No welding, simple cover plate, drill and tap , flat head screws.
 
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timetraveller

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When I cut the circular holes in two separate UFM I took no precautions against fire or explosion. I did not grind the hole. Instead, after making a small hole to act as a guide, I used a hole saw to cut the approximately two inch diameter holes in one go.
 
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