The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Brakes
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 83368" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>It looks like a good idea, but then it becomes non-standard which people are reluctant to carry out. There are of course many brake assemblies on standard old British bikes that use floating shoes.......Look at the 8 inch twin leader that BSA and Triumph used on their late 60's bikes, and these brakes work very well when the linings have good contact with the drum surface. I have relined a few of these and unfortunately you cannot machine these down in the lathe, because if the lathe tool digs in and shifts the shoe (which can readily move) it would smash itself to bits. I pretty much machine all the brakes I do by mounting the brake plate on the lathe and machine down the oversize linings, and this works very well. You can see by the shape of the machined lining afterward how far out some of them are with relation to how they are positioned on the brake plate. I can see that if you simply installed a set of shoes with new linings bonded or riveted on and radius ground to size ( 7 inch) that this would yield poor braking performance, not unlike having piston rings of the wrong diameter trying to seal on a bore of a different size. I have found after setting up a set of brakes on a Vincent in the way I described, that the brakes generally work quite well, and having a good rear brake makes a huge difference to the all up stopping power. I know some who do not use the rear brake out of habit from riding modern bikes, but this is very important with old bikes with drum brakes ..........<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 83368, member: 597"] It looks like a good idea, but then it becomes non-standard which people are reluctant to carry out. There are of course many brake assemblies on standard old British bikes that use floating shoes.......Look at the 8 inch twin leader that BSA and Triumph used on their late 60's bikes, and these brakes work very well when the linings have good contact with the drum surface. I have relined a few of these and unfortunately you cannot machine these down in the lathe, because if the lathe tool digs in and shifts the shoe (which can readily move) it would smash itself to bits. I pretty much machine all the brakes I do by mounting the brake plate on the lathe and machine down the oversize linings, and this works very well. You can see by the shape of the machined lining afterward how far out some of them are with relation to how they are positioned on the brake plate. I can see that if you simply installed a set of shoes with new linings bonded or riveted on and radius ground to size ( 7 inch) that this would yield poor braking performance, not unlike having piston rings of the wrong diameter trying to seal on a bore of a different size. I have found after setting up a set of brakes on a Vincent in the way I described, that the brakes generally work quite well, and having a good rear brake makes a huge difference to the all up stopping power. I know some who do not use the rear brake out of habit from riding modern bikes, but this is very important with old bikes with drum brakes ..........:) [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Irving's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Brakes
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top