FT: Frame (Twin) Whew! Getting The Air Bubbles Out of My Dot 5 System Is Frustrating

CarlHungness

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VOC Member
When I installed my Kawasaki disc brake set up a few years ago I had a devil of a time getting all the air bubbles out, and after hours of pumping/bleeding, pumping and watching the bubbles rise in the master cylinder, I achieved a great handle.
I took the calipers and MC off, cleaned the system (hate to admit I had not replaced fluid for a few years and the brakes went soft). After a couple of hours on YouTube once again educating myself on bleeding discs, I refilled the system with Dot 5, and recall a sentence that said. 'getting the air bubbles out of a Dot 5 system is difficult'. Thus I filled the calipers with no hose on. Then I made a plug that went half way into the banjos and carefully dripped fluid into the hoses before attaching them to the MC. Then I finally filled the MC. I pumped just a bit and got a handle! I thought I had beaten the system. Half hour later, the caliper handle was coming too close to the hand-grip, so I bled the system in the normal way. Same thing happened.
So I reverse bled them from the caliper upwards. Same thing again, caliper came too close to the bar.
I still have the same problem, I get a good handle that lasts for about an hour, and then the bubbles do their thing and create an air pocket(s). Just a couple of pulls on the handle returns the system to normal, feels great.
I think I have all the bubbles out, and it seems as though they are asleep for a time and re-awake after an hour or so.
The last time I did this operation I pulled the MC handle and watched very few bubbles, ever so tiny, rise. I did it over and over, and ultimately got a good handle that lasted. Seems as though I may have to repeat the process. I think the dual hose banjos may be the root of the problem and now I'm tapping on them, wiggling the hoses and saying, "This is really getting old," as I pull and release the MC handle.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
If the tiny bubbles are eventually collecting in the master cylinder, then what about pumping the lever up and then cracking open the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Obviously tighten it before you release the handle. Two man job? It would be good to have someone help control what comes out of there. You could take Ed’s suggestion one step further and just take the whole thing off the bike as an assembly and set it up so bubbles have a more direct route to the top. Hopefully with Dot 5 you can go long enough between changes to forget about the agony.
 

oexing

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DOT 5 is silicon fluid so it will never lead to rust in the system and you don´t need to change it periodically. And it does not strip paint like glycol brake fluid.

Vic
 

rapide049

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Non-VOC Member
Air rises , trying to bleed down low your wasting your time , push the fluid in at the bottom ,this can be a slow process , you will get fluid back up to the M/C , if the brake still feels soft , hold the lever back to the H-bar and crack the hose fitting at the M/C , if need be hold the the lever back to the H-bar with a rubber band for a period of time (over night if need be )
 

oexing

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VOC Member
Air rises certainly, so I´d think you just wait a week or two for bubbles to arrive at the master cylinder and vent into the reservoir, same access to the system like when fluid gets added up into hoses with brake wear. So why keep the lever strapped to the handlebar when that closes the access ?

Vic
 

Sten Jensen

Active Forum User
VOC Member
On my Ducati it is not uncommon at the start of the season to have air in the hydraulic activated clutch line.
As others have written strapping the lever to the handlebar overnight and shaking the line a bit always work and is far easier than trying to bleed the system. I think I read that compressing the fluid makes the bobles smaller so that they can easier find their way.
 
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