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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Tyres
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<blockquote data-quote="flxible" data-source="post: 90904" data-attributes="member: 998"><p>Hi Bill, I'm catching up on my forum reading-</p><p>I've found tube installation to be a topic of perennial discussion whenever bench racing gets around to tube type tires.</p><p>The variety of tube mounting methods employed by both shops and individuals seems widely varied.</p><p>So maybe 1 or 2 years ago the lack of agreement on method finally lead me to make inquiries at Avon, Michelin, and one other manufacturer I'm not recalling.</p><p>I posted the answers online somewhere, but I guess it wasn't here, as it didn't turn up in a search.</p><p>Anyway, they all had basically the same answer-</p><p>1- curved washer on valve stem, (to protect stem to tube interface) then valve stem through rim</p><p>2- first nut used to hold valve stem tight to rim during tire mounting</p><p>3- after tire mounting, first nut is loosened approx. 5-8mm distance from the rim</p><p>4- second nut used to lock first nut in place</p><p>5- valve cap installed</p><p>One of the manufacturers said this for observing if the tire shifts on the rim.</p><p>In my experience it seems most rims are knurled to grip the tire bead, but that said, I have one set of Vin rims that are smooth at the bead location (Radaelli) while the other set (Akront) is knurled.</p><p>One of the manufacturers also mentioned installation as you suggested- one nut under rim and one nut over rim; saying this method was for off road guys who were using low air pressure, I believe the idea was if the tire were to shift, the tube stayed with the rim, which I suppose assumes lots of talc in use.</p><p>I also recall racers used to run a nut up against the valve cap, in an effort to keep valve cap in place, this to (hopefully) keep air in tube if valve stem spring was weak, I have no idea how wide spread this tactic was, whether it worked, or if it's still employed?</p><p>Best-</p><p>George</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="flxible, post: 90904, member: 998"] Hi Bill, I'm catching up on my forum reading- I've found tube installation to be a topic of perennial discussion whenever bench racing gets around to tube type tires. The variety of tube mounting methods employed by both shops and individuals seems widely varied. So maybe 1 or 2 years ago the lack of agreement on method finally lead me to make inquiries at Avon, Michelin, and one other manufacturer I'm not recalling. I posted the answers online somewhere, but I guess it wasn't here, as it didn't turn up in a search. Anyway, they all had basically the same answer- 1- curved washer on valve stem, (to protect stem to tube interface) then valve stem through rim 2- first nut used to hold valve stem tight to rim during tire mounting 3- after tire mounting, first nut is loosened approx. 5-8mm distance from the rim 4- second nut used to lock first nut in place 5- valve cap installed One of the manufacturers said this for observing if the tire shifts on the rim. In my experience it seems most rims are knurled to grip the tire bead, but that said, I have one set of Vin rims that are smooth at the bead location (Radaelli) while the other set (Akront) is knurled. One of the manufacturers also mentioned installation as you suggested- one nut under rim and one nut over rim; saying this method was for off road guys who were using low air pressure, I believe the idea was if the tire were to shift, the tube stayed with the rim, which I suppose assumes lots of talc in use. I also recall racers used to run a nut up against the valve cap, in an effort to keep valve cap in place, this to (hopefully) keep air in tube if valve stem spring was weak, I have no idea how wide spread this tactic was, whether it worked, or if it's still employed? Best- George [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Tyres
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