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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Stripped Splines on Kickstart Shaft and Lever (Weep)
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 164068" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Andy, don´t feel bad about the stripped spline - not your fault, it was never ever a great idea to pair a spline with a pinch bolt and slotted lever. This never was a joint on any other brands as well that held up on kickstart levers at brute forces. Look at push bike pedals - or Guzzi classics or BMWs : No splines but taper bolts acting on flats milled on the shaft. Some British gearboxes used same design, SA or Burman possibly. </p><p> I was lucky to have one of two B Rapides come with a stainless kickstart lever, so one job - and worry - less to have it chromed finally. Certainly splines and shafts were scrap from Argentina, so my decision was the pushbike pedal mod. The slotted end was binned and a stainless cap welded on the lever for getting the meat there for the taper bolt. So no splined shaft was needed, just a new shaft splined and brazed into the gear segment, the flat waiting to be milled as I am still far from trying position of lever with bike on wheels. </p><p> Another easier repair is having the lever slotted end cut off and welded shut for a square through hole to be wire spark eroded, best with square sides one degree taper cut - every day wire edm job in toolrooms concerned with sheet metal cutting/forming. </p><p> The kickstart shaft then gets its one degree taper square on the dividing head on the mill, no miracle to do, just take your time. Best to have a shoulder as final stop on the taper square else you´d have trouble to get the lever off with excessive force. So test the fit of taper by push the lever on the shaft with finger, check depth and bolt up as hard as you will do later. Take another depth check in this position and remember to have this difference for distance from final step on shaft. So in the end you get a suitable fit on the kickstart shaft that lasts and can be taken off with acceptable force - depending on your chosen bit of final pull up to the step. In this design you have a bolt and big washer on the shaft end for pulling the lever up the taper and keep it there. This would be the Horex design postwar. Yes, you cannot set fine positions of lever like with the splines, so you mark sides of square as you like them. But with BMWs, Guzzis and all , for many decades there was never a big discussion about setting lever positions, no real need, once an acceptable average was set. . . . . and there was never discussions about stripped splines and scrap levers from this as well . . . . </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]53868[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]53869[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]53870[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>. . . . yeah, no rubber on lever : Recently I did the gasoline soak trick on tough Guzzi foot rest rubbers - worked like a dream, no sweat at all. Just accept stink for a few weeks till fuel has evaporated completely :</p><p>[ATTACH=full]53871[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 164068, member: 1493"] Andy, don´t feel bad about the stripped spline - not your fault, it was never ever a great idea to pair a spline with a pinch bolt and slotted lever. This never was a joint on any other brands as well that held up on kickstart levers at brute forces. Look at push bike pedals - or Guzzi classics or BMWs : No splines but taper bolts acting on flats milled on the shaft. Some British gearboxes used same design, SA or Burman possibly. I was lucky to have one of two B Rapides come with a stainless kickstart lever, so one job - and worry - less to have it chromed finally. Certainly splines and shafts were scrap from Argentina, so my decision was the pushbike pedal mod. The slotted end was binned and a stainless cap welded on the lever for getting the meat there for the taper bolt. So no splined shaft was needed, just a new shaft splined and brazed into the gear segment, the flat waiting to be milled as I am still far from trying position of lever with bike on wheels. Another easier repair is having the lever slotted end cut off and welded shut for a square through hole to be wire spark eroded, best with square sides one degree taper cut - every day wire edm job in toolrooms concerned with sheet metal cutting/forming. The kickstart shaft then gets its one degree taper square on the dividing head on the mill, no miracle to do, just take your time. Best to have a shoulder as final stop on the taper square else you´d have trouble to get the lever off with excessive force. So test the fit of taper by push the lever on the shaft with finger, check depth and bolt up as hard as you will do later. Take another depth check in this position and remember to have this difference for distance from final step on shaft. So in the end you get a suitable fit on the kickstart shaft that lasts and can be taken off with acceptable force - depending on your chosen bit of final pull up to the step. In this design you have a bolt and big washer on the shaft end for pulling the lever up the taper and keep it there. This would be the Horex design postwar. Yes, you cannot set fine positions of lever like with the splines, so you mark sides of square as you like them. But with BMWs, Guzzis and all , for many decades there was never a big discussion about setting lever positions, no real need, once an acceptable average was set. . . . . and there was never discussions about stripped splines and scrap levers from this as well . . . . Vic [ATTACH type="full"]53868[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]53869[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]53870[/ATTACH] . . . . yeah, no rubber on lever : Recently I did the gasoline soak trick on tough Guzzi foot rest rubbers - worked like a dream, no sweat at all. Just accept stink for a few weeks till fuel has evaporated completely : [ATTACH type="full"]53871[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Stripped Splines on Kickstart Shaft and Lever (Weep)
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