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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Oil pump volume
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<blockquote data-quote="Cyborg" data-source="post: 178483" data-attributes="member: 3426"><p>Ran my first tests the other day. The results are quite similar to the numbers Dan posted. I mounted the oil tank above the pump to eliminate the possibility of suction head skewing the numbers. I used a litre of straight 30w and measured the time it took for the pump to transfer the entire litre (after the pump was properly primed).It was difficult to get the auxiliary DC motor set to run at a constant RPM, which in turn made it difficult to accurately start the test. The pump was run at 364 RPM (using the lathe motor) which equates to 5,460 engine RPM assuming the ratio of 15 crank rotations to 1 pump rotation is accurate. What was most interesting was the pump’s tendency to suck in air. When I made the test housing for the pump, the bore was drilled undersize and then carefully enlarged to the correct size with a boring bar. When the pump was pushed into the housing (as an assembly) the trapped air would force the rotor back out like an air spring. That told me that the pump is a reasonably good fit in the bore. For the outlet, I used clear hose so any air in the oil was visible. To help eliminate the air, I used sealant between the bronze sleeve and the aluminum housing. Connectors were sealed either with Teflon tape or Loctite thread sealant.</p><p>So… Greg’s comment about carefully using sealant when installing the pump is noteworthy. Not so much about preventing oil pressure from escaping, but to prevent the pump from drawing in air. The amount of air would likely increase with engine temperature and RPM. It would also increase if at any time there was positive crankcase pressure which tells me about the importance of crankcase breathing. Another reason to consider adding a reed valve. You’re welcome to draw your own conclusions on that one. There isn’t a lot of real estate between the drive gear and the intake port on the pump, so sealing that area should definitely help, especially if the bore is knackered.</p><p>I’ll run another test or 2, verify the crank/ pump ratio and post the results.</p><p>Hose clamps were added prior to the test.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]61801[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cyborg, post: 178483, member: 3426"] Ran my first tests the other day. The results are quite similar to the numbers Dan posted. I mounted the oil tank above the pump to eliminate the possibility of suction head skewing the numbers. I used a litre of straight 30w and measured the time it took for the pump to transfer the entire litre (after the pump was properly primed).It was difficult to get the auxiliary DC motor set to run at a constant RPM, which in turn made it difficult to accurately start the test. The pump was run at 364 RPM (using the lathe motor) which equates to 5,460 engine RPM assuming the ratio of 15 crank rotations to 1 pump rotation is accurate. What was most interesting was the pump’s tendency to suck in air. When I made the test housing for the pump, the bore was drilled undersize and then carefully enlarged to the correct size with a boring bar. When the pump was pushed into the housing (as an assembly) the trapped air would force the rotor back out like an air spring. That told me that the pump is a reasonably good fit in the bore. For the outlet, I used clear hose so any air in the oil was visible. To help eliminate the air, I used sealant between the bronze sleeve and the aluminum housing. Connectors were sealed either with Teflon tape or Loctite thread sealant. So… Greg’s comment about carefully using sealant when installing the pump is noteworthy. Not so much about preventing oil pressure from escaping, but to prevent the pump from drawing in air. The amount of air would likely increase with engine temperature and RPM. It would also increase if at any time there was positive crankcase pressure which tells me about the importance of crankcase breathing. Another reason to consider adding a reed valve. You’re welcome to draw your own conclusions on that one. There isn’t a lot of real estate between the drive gear and the intake port on the pump, so sealing that area should definitely help, especially if the bore is knackered. I’ll run another test or 2, verify the crank/ pump ratio and post the results. Hose clamps were added prior to the test. [ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_5822.jpeg"]61801[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Oil pump volume
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