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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 120608" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>It is the combined length of the eyebolts and damper which control the total movement and the range of movement. It is important than when you sit on the bike with your feet off the ground and the bike on its wheels that the lower link is either horizontal or a few mm low at the front. It does not matter if the front is low with the bike only but ideally it should move down at the front when you sit on the bike by about 12 mm. If it does not do that then probably the springs are too strong but it always pays to use the bike a little to make sure everything is working properly before you change anything. If you want the full range of movement then you also should cut about 25 mm off the top of the inner spring box and the bottom of the outer spring box.</p><p>The modification does two things. The geometry change, which is entirely due to the work of John Emmanuel, will alter what happens when you brake and gives a safer ride. The other modifications are due to me, with testing feedback from Chris Launders, and are intended to give a more comfortable ride with more movement. The development work of Hadronuk with AVO gave the damping that is now available. The rider can tune the system to give them the most satisfaction. For example, Robin Stafford came up with a further useful dodge. He needed the 33 lbs/inch springs for the combination of his weight and the weight of his twin. However, over the most sever potholes he found that the front end could bottom out. He tried putting the original Vincent inner springs inside the new springs but cut down in length so that they did not come into play until there had been about one and a half inches (37 mm) of movement. This now gives him the advantage of a very compliant movement over small bumps in the road but prevents the bottoming out over severe holes and/or heavy braking.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 120608, member: 456"] It is the combined length of the eyebolts and damper which control the total movement and the range of movement. It is important than when you sit on the bike with your feet off the ground and the bike on its wheels that the lower link is either horizontal or a few mm low at the front. It does not matter if the front is low with the bike only but ideally it should move down at the front when you sit on the bike by about 12 mm. If it does not do that then probably the springs are too strong but it always pays to use the bike a little to make sure everything is working properly before you change anything. If you want the full range of movement then you also should cut about 25 mm off the top of the inner spring box and the bottom of the outer spring box. The modification does two things. The geometry change, which is entirely due to the work of John Emmanuel, will alter what happens when you brake and gives a safer ride. The other modifications are due to me, with testing feedback from Chris Launders, and are intended to give a more comfortable ride with more movement. The development work of Hadronuk with AVO gave the damping that is now available. The rider can tune the system to give them the most satisfaction. For example, Robin Stafford came up with a further useful dodge. He needed the 33 lbs/inch springs for the combination of his weight and the weight of his twin. However, over the most sever potholes he found that the front end could bottom out. He tried putting the original Vincent inner springs inside the new springs but cut down in length so that they did not come into play until there had been about one and a half inches (37 mm) of movement. This now gives him the advantage of a very compliant movement over small bumps in the road but prevents the bottoming out over severe holes and/or heavy braking. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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