T: Fuel Tank New Project

erik

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
IMG_5143.JPG
 

erik

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
This is my new project and I heard that this petrol tank is a tank converted by Fritz Egli in the very early years. Is this true?
 
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Pushrod Twin

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VOC Member
Yes, let's follow it. We haven't seen, (well I haven't) a project thread for a while.
What are the telescopic forks off, are you going to keep them? The wheel looks like it has a good sized brake?
If the fork & tank mods were made by Fritz, then it is an historic bike and I would suggest it should be preserved as such rather than "restored" to original Vincent factory specification?
 

erik

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VOC Member
This bike was put together from parts and the fork is from a Horex and the frontwheel is a Münch Mammut one.Unluckily the hub is cracked and is made from magnesium which can not be weldet I think.The UFM is the early type with no slot for the rear damper.
 

Albervin

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VOC Member
If it were me.. I would swap the UFM for a Series C rather than cut the early one. That should be cost positive for you i.e. you will end up with a UFM plus cash. Sell one of the gearboxes. Buy a Suzuki GT750 front brake. Good hunting.
 

Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
My Triton project was with a Manx rolling chassis but front conical hub had so much electrolysis action from the cast iron insert that it exploded, so the rear I swapped for a normal Noton wheel. Magnesium brake plates I've just removed from my Lightningised Rapide done in 1953 by Clifford Brown for my deceased mate Robert Fabian who had his first Vincent stolen, has all been stripped vapour blasted and haven't replaced anything other than rings, excentric shims, RFM pivot shims, no feeling of Brinnelling, but not progressed for 3 years too many other jobs in keeping the "B" going and electric start fitted with a quick strip for main bearing renewal and so it goes on, with a massive deviation in purchasing a 1919 "V" twin JAP engined Sunbeam with original chair. Does anyone know what the fully advanced position of the mag should be ?? Side valve engine.
Anyway, keep the project going, it's nice to read someone is productive!
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
Marcus, Go for around 38 degrees advance with the JAP to begin with, you should have manual ADV/RET anyway so you can see how it runs, Which engine is it by the way.
Erik, Magnesium is easily welded these days.
 
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