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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 95307" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>OK Gentlemen; the panic is now over. What panic I hear you ask. Well the fact that I was told that the new hydraulic steering damper kits produce problems when it comes to fit them. Remember that this kit was designed on a UFM off the bike and although I fitted a crash bar to ensure there was clearance in that area I did not get it right when it came to clearance between the moving end of the ali bracket, together with the moving end of the damper rod, and the front of the engine. Specifically the front valve spring inspection cap and the nuts which hold down the cylinder head bracket at the left front of the cylinder head. I have had to coble together a system which consists of the prototype 'D' engine and the UFM from the late 'C' ex-Cecil Mills bike. With this combination I can now check the problem and two changes are required, both of which can probably be carried out by those who have already got their damper kits and which will be made to any future kits sent out.</p><p>The modifications are 1) reduce the thickness of the spacer which fits between the ali bracket and the moving end of the damper rod. These are supplied 10 mm thick and need to be reduced to 5 to 5.5 mm thick.</p><p>2) It is also necessary to grind, file or sand a flat at the rear of the moving end of the ali bracket where the M8 screw holds the damper rod on to the ali bracket. This flat can be at 45 degrees so that only the lower face of the ali bracket is cleared and needs to be about 3 - 4 mm deep at its deepest, Without this the moving end of the ali bracket hits the front exhaust valve spring cap.</p><p>These two modifications will be made to all future kits which are sent out.</p><p>If you have a 'D' breather cap on the front exhaust valve spring cap then you will have to rotate the damper body around the damper rod so that the adjuster knob is at approximately ten o'clock when viewed from the left hand side of the bike.</p><p>To those of you who have already bought kits I apologise, particularly if you have already painted or powder coated the ali bracket. If there is any one else out there who already has a kit then it would be helpful if you could get on with fitting it and let the rest of us know what problems you experience. I cannot guarantee that the 'hybrid C/D engine/gearbox/UFM I have just cobbled together will be the same as other bikes to within thous and it really is thous of clearance in this instance that we are dealing with. I will post a photograph of the modified ali bracket later.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 95307, member: 456"] OK Gentlemen; the panic is now over. What panic I hear you ask. Well the fact that I was told that the new hydraulic steering damper kits produce problems when it comes to fit them. Remember that this kit was designed on a UFM off the bike and although I fitted a crash bar to ensure there was clearance in that area I did not get it right when it came to clearance between the moving end of the ali bracket, together with the moving end of the damper rod, and the front of the engine. Specifically the front valve spring inspection cap and the nuts which hold down the cylinder head bracket at the left front of the cylinder head. I have had to coble together a system which consists of the prototype 'D' engine and the UFM from the late 'C' ex-Cecil Mills bike. With this combination I can now check the problem and two changes are required, both of which can probably be carried out by those who have already got their damper kits and which will be made to any future kits sent out. The modifications are 1) reduce the thickness of the spacer which fits between the ali bracket and the moving end of the damper rod. These are supplied 10 mm thick and need to be reduced to 5 to 5.5 mm thick. 2) It is also necessary to grind, file or sand a flat at the rear of the moving end of the ali bracket where the M8 screw holds the damper rod on to the ali bracket. This flat can be at 45 degrees so that only the lower face of the ali bracket is cleared and needs to be about 3 - 4 mm deep at its deepest, Without this the moving end of the ali bracket hits the front exhaust valve spring cap. These two modifications will be made to all future kits which are sent out. If you have a 'D' breather cap on the front exhaust valve spring cap then you will have to rotate the damper body around the damper rod so that the adjuster knob is at approximately ten o'clock when viewed from the left hand side of the bike. To those of you who have already bought kits I apologise, particularly if you have already painted or powder coated the ali bracket. If there is any one else out there who already has a kit then it would be helpful if you could get on with fitting it and let the rest of us know what problems you experience. I cannot guarantee that the 'hybrid C/D engine/gearbox/UFM I have just cobbled together will be the same as other bikes to within thous and it really is thous of clearance in this instance that we are dealing with. I will post a photograph of the modified ali bracket later. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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