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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 93548" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Maybe it's not fully extended as well............Or using the longer eye bolts will make a big difference. I installed one of the AVO dampers to the front (and coilover rear) to a Shadow and had to grind about 3 mm deep into the upper link to get clearance there. As a point of interest, I have done this mod using pretty much every shock absorber available for the front end of a Vincent and used long eye-bolts on every single one, you will loose suspension travel if you use the short ones, and the pre-load on the springs will be much higher than necessary. It is necessary to spend some time setting up the steering head bearings to remove as much play out of them as you can without binding. If there is any play you will notice a clunking from the front end, I think the new geometry makes this play more obvious than a stock set up. Also if you fit a new lower bearing felt seal, they can tend to create quite a bit of drag on the steering.........This has the effect of riding with a stock friction damper wound on too much. If the seal is too compressed, I find it easier to cut the seal in half by slicing it with a very sharp knife with the seal sitting over a piece of wooden dowel like Tim's favorite suspension part, though a bit longer, rotating and cutting as you go. Another reminder to those lost over time..................It is VERY IMPORTANT to check that your empty spring cases are thoroughly clean and free of any binding, as this will impede the free action of the suspension especially if the lower link has had the bearing mod done. The "Liveliness" of the forks will become obvious once some miles are gathered up. I find it best to clean the crud out using a good solvent (petrol works very well) and a good stiff bottle brush used several times to get all the old grease and grit out of the very ends, especially the top of the upper case. For those using new upper spring cases, the top brass insert is slightly different to the originals in that when the springs are installed and the cases slid together, the new ones will show that the overall length from eye to eye is about 10 mm longer, so it may be necessary to shorten the springs to compensate or else the front end will be topped out...........It is common to have to shorten the springs, so do not feel bad if this is the case. My advice is to remove no more than an inch from the right spring, and then fine tune with the left spring. In this way you can use the front axle and cord to winch the spring case for assembly and removal quickly without having to swap the axle around to alter the right spring. Oh and do remember to give the springs a nice coat of grease once you are happy. Happy to answer any other questions if needed..............Cheers for now.............Greg.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 93548, member: 597"] Maybe it's not fully extended as well............Or using the longer eye bolts will make a big difference. I installed one of the AVO dampers to the front (and coilover rear) to a Shadow and had to grind about 3 mm deep into the upper link to get clearance there. As a point of interest, I have done this mod using pretty much every shock absorber available for the front end of a Vincent and used long eye-bolts on every single one, you will loose suspension travel if you use the short ones, and the pre-load on the springs will be much higher than necessary. It is necessary to spend some time setting up the steering head bearings to remove as much play out of them as you can without binding. If there is any play you will notice a clunking from the front end, I think the new geometry makes this play more obvious than a stock set up. Also if you fit a new lower bearing felt seal, they can tend to create quite a bit of drag on the steering.........This has the effect of riding with a stock friction damper wound on too much. If the seal is too compressed, I find it easier to cut the seal in half by slicing it with a very sharp knife with the seal sitting over a piece of wooden dowel like Tim's favorite suspension part, though a bit longer, rotating and cutting as you go. Another reminder to those lost over time..................It is VERY IMPORTANT to check that your empty spring cases are thoroughly clean and free of any binding, as this will impede the free action of the suspension especially if the lower link has had the bearing mod done. The "Liveliness" of the forks will become obvious once some miles are gathered up. I find it best to clean the crud out using a good solvent (petrol works very well) and a good stiff bottle brush used several times to get all the old grease and grit out of the very ends, especially the top of the upper case. For those using new upper spring cases, the top brass insert is slightly different to the originals in that when the springs are installed and the cases slid together, the new ones will show that the overall length from eye to eye is about 10 mm longer, so it may be necessary to shorten the springs to compensate or else the front end will be topped out...........It is common to have to shorten the springs, so do not feel bad if this is the case. My advice is to remove no more than an inch from the right spring, and then fine tune with the left spring. In this way you can use the front axle and cord to winch the spring case for assembly and removal quickly without having to swap the axle around to alter the right spring. Oh and do remember to give the springs a nice coat of grease once you are happy. Happy to answer any other questions if needed..............Cheers for now.............Greg. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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