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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Dismantling and Refitting the UFM
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 114366" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Never easily satisfied on my findings and after a lot of pondering about fixing the oil tank to the head lug I recently decided on having ALL holes, both sides, countersunk for 90 degree cone nuts on plain bolts from stainless. My collection of unmatched Argentinian bits lead me to machine all places on the tank for concentricity by fabricating a piloted 90 degree countersink running on a long hardened 8 mm pilot sitting in the head lug. So I believe this will produce a very solid unit, with bolts glued in the head lug with LOW strength Loctite 221 or 222 . That way you get no rust problem in there and no fretting. The cone nuts will have same Loctite and some MoS2 paste on the cone when assembling the lot. </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]31563[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]31564[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]31565[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 114366, member: 1493"] Never easily satisfied on my findings and after a lot of pondering about fixing the oil tank to the head lug I recently decided on having ALL holes, both sides, countersunk for 90 degree cone nuts on plain bolts from stainless. My collection of unmatched Argentinian bits lead me to machine all places on the tank for concentricity by fabricating a piloted 90 degree countersink running on a long hardened 8 mm pilot sitting in the head lug. So I believe this will produce a very solid unit, with bolts glued in the head lug with LOW strength Loctite 221 or 222 . That way you get no rust problem in there and no fretting. The cone nuts will have same Loctite and some MoS2 paste on the cone when assembling the lot. Vic [ATTACH type="full"]31563[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]31564[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]31565[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Dismantling and Refitting the UFM
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