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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Dismantling and Refitting the UFM
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 114196" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Ideally the paint should be a 2 pac Urethane these resist modern fuels the best. Of course a constant fuel leak will lift pretty much anything over a certain amount of time. A leaking fuel tap on a Shadow that allows fuel to constantly drip on the engine will lift the paint......Perhaps powder coat may survive this better, I'm not prepared to find out .......The engine numbers can be hard enough to read under a thin coat of paint......... Just saw Martyn's post....... Powder coat is very hard and brittle, if a crack were to occur in a frame tube or similar, I am not sure it would not show itself if the part was painted or powder coated. It takes a keen eye to spot cracks in parts, unfortunately sometimes they are found the hard way. At the end of the day you really want the coating to be as thin as is practical, a thick coat acts like a gasket. Not good when bolting assemblies together that need to be done up tight like swing arm pivot studs and the like. If the surfaces compress the coating then the fixture will loosen in service. To me it is not a practical solution, having found out years ago...........</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 114196, member: 597"] Ideally the paint should be a 2 pac Urethane these resist modern fuels the best. Of course a constant fuel leak will lift pretty much anything over a certain amount of time. A leaking fuel tap on a Shadow that allows fuel to constantly drip on the engine will lift the paint......Perhaps powder coat may survive this better, I'm not prepared to find out .......The engine numbers can be hard enough to read under a thin coat of paint......... Just saw Martyn's post....... Powder coat is very hard and brittle, if a crack were to occur in a frame tube or similar, I am not sure it would not show itself if the part was painted or powder coated. It takes a keen eye to spot cracks in parts, unfortunately sometimes they are found the hard way. At the end of the day you really want the coating to be as thin as is practical, a thick coat acts like a gasket. Not good when bolting assemblies together that need to be done up tight like swing arm pivot studs and the like. If the surfaces compress the coating then the fixture will loosen in service. To me it is not a practical solution, having found out years ago........... [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Dismantling and Refitting the UFM
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