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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cracked FF3 Lower Link?
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<blockquote data-quote="Elanman39" data-source="post: 163030" data-attributes="member: 5453"><p>The very straight nature of the crack certainly makes me think it is a forging issue Gary; the equivalent of a cold shut in a casting where two advancing surfaces meet and fail to fully bond. I came across a similar issue on a forged steel rear upright on a car I was involved in the development of a few years back. In that case the forging included a hole, I'm not sure if the lower link forging would have had a hole included or if the holes was just bored out afterwards. If the latter then my theory bites the dust...</p><p></p><p>Good spot Bill, funnily enough I noticed the same thing when I was reviewing the thread a few minutes ago. I have just been and checked and we have aberration number two: the lower damper mounts are not a matched pair, they are about 1/8" different in height. I don't see that this would have caused the crack but it can't have been helping the fork articulation too much. One also has a rather ugly sharp stress raising corner while the other has a much more healthy looking radius. Any ideas where I'll find another with the radius? So much for the high quality build, looks like I need to spend a bit more time checking everything closely.....</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the comments Vic, The current plan is to pop the old bushes out, vee the crack and weld it back up after warming the forging through and then check the truth of the bush housing bores to see how much distortion we have. If under a couple of thou I'll rebore the link straight and use oversized bushes, if worse then will probably do as you suggest and correct the misalignment by fitting new bushes with small bores and then boring the bushes in situ. The Igus bushes sound interesting.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Elanman39, post: 163030, member: 5453"] The very straight nature of the crack certainly makes me think it is a forging issue Gary; the equivalent of a cold shut in a casting where two advancing surfaces meet and fail to fully bond. I came across a similar issue on a forged steel rear upright on a car I was involved in the development of a few years back. In that case the forging included a hole, I'm not sure if the lower link forging would have had a hole included or if the holes was just bored out afterwards. If the latter then my theory bites the dust... Good spot Bill, funnily enough I noticed the same thing when I was reviewing the thread a few minutes ago. I have just been and checked and we have aberration number two: the lower damper mounts are not a matched pair, they are about 1/8" different in height. I don't see that this would have caused the crack but it can't have been helping the fork articulation too much. One also has a rather ugly sharp stress raising corner while the other has a much more healthy looking radius. Any ideas where I'll find another with the radius? So much for the high quality build, looks like I need to spend a bit more time checking everything closely..... Thanks for the comments Vic, The current plan is to pop the old bushes out, vee the crack and weld it back up after warming the forging through and then check the truth of the bush housing bores to see how much distortion we have. If under a couple of thou I'll rebore the link straight and use oversized bushes, if worse then will probably do as you suggest and correct the misalignment by fitting new bushes with small bores and then boring the bushes in situ. The Igus bushes sound interesting. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cracked FF3 Lower Link?
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