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Cornering a Vincent
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 91530" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Those photos show some of the problems. If you are grinding through to your polished nails then there is a serious ergonomics problem. The rider doesn't always get a choice. But, you would hate to find you crashed because you chose to ride the bike in a way that lifted the tires off the track.</p><p></p><p>As Tim's photo shows, often in a race you try something and you hope it will work out. If there is good clearance for not just the track, but that occasion where you might come too close to the curb, you are all set. I remember running a low straight pipe the first time I raced Daytona with the Grey Flash (19" wheels). We entered the track just before the Horseshoe. I went gingerly into the Horseshoe and the pipe began to lift the wheels. A quick change of lines remedied it, but it made it difficult to concentrate on learning the track.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]19840[/ATTACH]</p><p>Early days at Summit Point, WV. The first time around I touched the knee to the placement, but the puck was in the wrong place and it was not very comfortable touching down with just the thickness of the leather. You can see that the knee would touch down if further out because I have moved off the center of the seat. This allows the bike to go round the corner with a little less lean. More importantly, if you have misjudged the apex and you are running out of pavement you can keep turning in and not run off the track. Alternatively, if you are straight up and down on the bike in the corner and you have to turn tighter you can hike to the inside and you should be OK. I thought that being able to do these things might come in handy.</p><p></p><p>The ergonomics of this bike caused the leg to be in a strange position. I had only 11" from the seat to the peg. This is why the puck was in the wrong place and the legs were tucked under too much. I added 4" to the seat height. You can see the G50 poking down and it is the closest item to the ground. It is a center line straight pipe, before the rules required a silencer and oil catch pan.</p><p></p><p>I should mention that the wheels in all of the above were 18". I ran 19" on the Flash, but I really wanted 18" wheels for the improved handling and braking.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]19841[/ATTACH]</p><p>This is the Flash with 19" wheels and a center line straight pipe. It is hard to se withe the shadow, but the even though there is more ground clearance, the pipe is quite close. It gets quite busy under there when you have to add a silencer and a catch pan.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]19843[/ATTACH]</p><p>As a result of all the fooling around, the above position became sort of a standard for me. Clubman bars to lower me a bit, both feet on the balls of the foot. This seems necessary if you inclined at all to shift your weight around. Nothing touches and nothing to get trapped.</p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 91530, member: 1177"] Those photos show some of the problems. If you are grinding through to your polished nails then there is a serious ergonomics problem. The rider doesn't always get a choice. But, you would hate to find you crashed because you chose to ride the bike in a way that lifted the tires off the track. As Tim's photo shows, often in a race you try something and you hope it will work out. If there is good clearance for not just the track, but that occasion where you might come too close to the curb, you are all set. I remember running a low straight pipe the first time I raced Daytona with the Grey Flash (19" wheels). We entered the track just before the Horseshoe. I went gingerly into the Horseshoe and the pipe began to lift the wheels. A quick change of lines remedied it, but it made it difficult to concentrate on learning the track. [ATTACH=full]19840[/ATTACH] Early days at Summit Point, WV. The first time around I touched the knee to the placement, but the puck was in the wrong place and it was not very comfortable touching down with just the thickness of the leather. You can see that the knee would touch down if further out because I have moved off the center of the seat. This allows the bike to go round the corner with a little less lean. More importantly, if you have misjudged the apex and you are running out of pavement you can keep turning in and not run off the track. Alternatively, if you are straight up and down on the bike in the corner and you have to turn tighter you can hike to the inside and you should be OK. I thought that being able to do these things might come in handy. The ergonomics of this bike caused the leg to be in a strange position. I had only 11" from the seat to the peg. This is why the puck was in the wrong place and the legs were tucked under too much. I added 4" to the seat height. You can see the G50 poking down and it is the closest item to the ground. It is a center line straight pipe, before the rules required a silencer and oil catch pan. I should mention that the wheels in all of the above were 18". I ran 19" on the Flash, but I really wanted 18" wheels for the improved handling and braking. [ATTACH=full]19841[/ATTACH] This is the Flash with 19" wheels and a center line straight pipe. It is hard to se withe the shadow, but the even though there is more ground clearance, the pipe is quite close. It gets quite busy under there when you have to add a silencer and a catch pan. [ATTACH=full]19843[/ATTACH] As a result of all the fooling around, the above position became sort of a standard for me. Clubman bars to lower me a bit, both feet on the balls of the foot. This seems necessary if you inclined at all to shift your weight around. Nothing touches and nothing to get trapped. David [/QUOTE]
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Cornering a Vincent
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